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  1. #1341
    hi guys i really recommend anyone put a sticky to this thread such as the parameters
    to setup pla, abs , ninja flex and etc

    parameters include
    print speed
    layer height
    layer width
    tempreature
    and etc2

    it will be more benefit for a lot of people

    enjoy !

  2. #1342
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by talasyn View Post
    Thanks for the advice. The link you provided has 4 profiles and they all have listed the material as "ninjaflex". Are these profiles only to be used when using that specific material?
    Honestly I will have to look into that but I do remember downloading the profiles from github and then performing slight customizations based on my preferences. I guess I could just export and share what I have currently since I don't use ninjaflex.

    EDIT:
    Here are settings I used for a print which I've shared - ABS with temperature 230c for extruder, 110c for build plate. The resolution for that specific print was 0.3mm but I usually print with those settings at 0.12mm.
    http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post86692
    Last edited by cncartist; 05-04-2016 at 03:13 PM.

  3. #1343
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by talasyn View Post
    Thanks for the advice. The link you provided has 4 profiles and they all have listed the material as "ninjaflex". Are these profiles only to be used when using that specific material?
    You're welcome and I have figured it out. You simply load the Flash Dual.fff profile and then select your material from the drop down which will "autoConfigureMaterial". Next, if you aren't printing with both extruders go into the temperature settings and set the temperature for the extruder you will not be using to 0. I set all my options to utilize the "Right Extruder" and if you can't get the heated build plate to warm up when using that profile, I have information written down regarding that as well.

  4. #1344
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HalimDesign View Post
    hi guys i really recommend anyone put a sticky to this thread such as the parameters
    to setup pla, abs , ninja flex and etc

    parameters include
    print speed
    layer height
    layer width
    tempreature
    and etc2

    it will be more benefit for a lot of people

    enjoy !
    I wish we could. The Forum operators don't seem to want to give us our own folder.
    Look for more information like that to be posted here. https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/qidi-tech-i in the future.

  5. #1345
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    Quote Originally Posted by HalimDesign View Post
    hi guys i really recommend anyone put a sticky to this thread such as the parameters
    to setup pla, abs , ninja flex and etc

    parameters include
    print speed
    layer height
    layer width
    tempreature
    and etc2

    it will be more benefit for a lot of people

    enjoy !
    Many of these parameters you are asking about depend ALOT more on the print rather than the material.

    I will give you the 'baseline' values I use for each of these, but always keep in mind you may need to make adjustments to account for difference in material and conditions (like ambient heat/cold or humidity).
    EVERY little thing will effect the final print...you just gotta find what works for you.

    For temps:
    PLA is nozzle at 190-200c and plate at 70-75c (but can normally drop bed temp after few layers).
    ABS is nozzle at 230-240c and plate at 100-110 (but again the bed can be droped to around 80c or so after few layers).

    Print speed, I use 3200mm/min for ABS, and around 1800mm/min for PLA. But again these values will need tweeked depending on the print. For simple boxy things you can go a bit faster, but for intricate prints you may need to slow it down some.
    Some stuff you need to go SUPER slow. Any rubberized material, or FDA grade stuff typicaly needs to be printed really slow...like 1200mm/min or less.

    To me it seems layer height is totally dependent on the print. A 0.1 layer is good for high detail or intricate prints. If its something simple without alot of definition then a 0.3 layer height works fine.

  6. #1346
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    Has anyone used (or know someone trustworthy who has) a Filabot machine??
    I am sitting here about to order one...but wanna make sure the hype is real, or if it looks alot better than it is.
    I know its not gonna make material anywhere on par with material from a good manufact. like MakerGeeks or Orb, but it don't need to be so good for simple stuff and prototyping. This is my main interest in the machine, being able to prototype things with waste and save the good stuff from major suppliers for production models.
    To me the price is a bit much if its all hype....but $1400 is a small bit if it truly works as advertised.

  7. #1347
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
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    Here is a short video showing removal of 3 identical parts from a "blue sticker" build plate via print removal tool. The second part removal is simulating a "strong bonded" part with little access and I use the isopropyl on it to quickly loosen the edge. There is a different method on each one and the comments of the video should explain fully.


    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    Has anyone used (or know someone trustworthy who has) a Filabot machine??
    I am sitting here about to order one...but wanna make sure the hype is real, or if it looks alot better than it is.
    I know its not gonna make material anywhere on par with material from a good manufact. like MakerGeeks or Orb, but it don't need to be so good for simple stuff and prototyping. This is my main interest in the machine, being able to prototype things with waste and save the good stuff from major suppliers for production models.
    To me the price is a bit much if its all hype....but $1400 is a small bit if it truly works as advertised.
    Have you researched the filastruder/filawinder? I haven't used either but the price point on the one I mentioned is much better.
    Last edited by cncartist; 05-04-2016 at 07:06 PM.

  8. #1348
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    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post


    Here is a short video showing removal of 3 identical parts from a "blue sticker" build plate via print removal tool. The second part removal is simulating a "strong bonded" part with little access and I use the isopropyl on it to quickly loosen the edge. There is a different method on each one and the comments of the video should explain fully.




    Have you researched the filastruder/filawinder? I haven't used either but the price point on the one I mentioned is much better.
    I've been looking into the Noztek for work.
    http://www.noztek.com/product/the-no...r-3d-printers/

  9. #1349
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KludgeGuru View Post
    I've been looking into the Noztek for work.
    http://www.noztek.com/product/the-no...r-3d-printers/
    It seems well built and may be the only I've heard of with the ability to do highly exotic/metal filaments if going for the high end model. Looks like a great setup for a more demanding environment.

  10. #1350
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    I kinda like how the Filabot is set up. Seems like it would be easy to rig water bins and a winder.

    @cncartist:
    I did look at the filastruder, but its a bit to much of a kit for my likes. Despite being 36 I have onset arthritis pretty bad in both hand, makes soldering a chore, soldering well damn near impossible.

    @Kludge:
    That Noztek actually looks pretty good, and the setup would still work with the tank/puller idea I had (I have limited space so have to get creative with my shop). I have no clue what that is in US$.

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