Blue Eagle Labs Kossel Clear (ABS) Build Log

[LuckyImperial]

Well, time for an update....

The stiff spot in the bearings/rollers was actually not unique to the dropped carriage, they all did it. The good news is their performance doesn't seem to be affected by it. After I got everything wired up and carriages moving via motors they seemed real smooth.

Wiring is still pretty ugly. I just wanted to get RC Marlin loaded and calibrated so I could start sending Gcode. Btw, I learned a lot...really quickly...about what is okay and not okay during calibration and setup. Here's some tips for first time Marlin users:

1. G28! G28! G28! This "Home" command is really important before you do pretty much anything. It gives RC Marlin/Marlin an understanding of where the printer is in relation to the bed. Just power the printer up? G28. Finish a print? G28. Starting a print? G28 just because. I slammed my head into the bed/endstops a few times because I didn't "go home" before sending a command.

2. With RC Marlin, you need to let the "G30 A Dnnn" calibration finish ON ITS OWN. I'm not sure if you can interrupt it, but when I sent an M500 command it "coincidentally" finished on the next iteration but put my Z0.00 way too high. Also, make sure everything is really ready before you start your calibration. Put your printer where its going to live, double check belt tensions, make sure everything is parallel. My belts started slowly slipped until iteration 71 before I acknowledged that belt tension was an issue. After I tightened up my belts, tightened the zip ties, and double nutted the tensioners (so they wouldn't loosen) my calibration was done in like 11 iterations.

3. RC Marlin's "G30 A Dnnn" autocalibration won't set your Z height perfectly using the stock mechanical enstop. You will need to use "M666 Hnnn" to tweak it until it fufills the paper shim test (piece of paper barley slides out from under the printer nozzel) at Z0.00. Use "G1 Z20 F2000" to put your head at 20mm above the plate and work down until you're at Z0.00 to do the paper test. If your hot end tip is too high at Z0.00, make your Z height larger and retest. If it's too low (hits the bed) then make your Z height smaller. Finally, don't forget to M500 after every Z height change and then G28.

4. This guide: http://www.maui-3d.com/kcZeroBacklashInstallation.php has a ton of great RC Marlin information.


Anyway that's where I'm at. I'm fairly well calibrated (my endstops need to be straightened and I'd like to do the calibration at a slower speed when I figure out how) and my paper test is solid. My first calibration square was a little big and didn't really adhere to my bed, but at least I'm extruding filament and the printer isnt crashing into itself!

Finally...I made a cute little video of my first G30 E. It was actually my second but don't tell anyone.
https://goo.gl/photos/JdmEpRmQkTX1XVuN9