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  1. #1
    Student
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Chestermere, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    34
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    No coating, I used tripod mode (only mode I use - "Freescan mode") High detail mode, medium brightness.

    In a previous post a while back I said this scanner will not pick up dark objects, that was very false. I scanned an engine bay the other day that was painted black and I was astounded the level of detail I was picking up.

    I'm not sure, but I think when textures are added to the software the color will no longer matter much and coating will not be necessary. This is what Artec found when they built the Eva with textures, and since they are based on the same technology I wouldn't be surprised if the outcomes are similar.

    With this scanner, if you want to pick up near black and still be able to pick up brighter colors you have to scan with the "Dark and bright" setting which doubles your scanning time to around 40 sec. No big deal if it's a small object, huge deal if it's a large object. With this setting it picks up almost everything. Not having to coat is nice.

    Dave @ Nerv

  2. #2
    Yesterday i got my scanner too ! 3rd batch.
    Here is a scan i did this morning.
    Freescan mode total 57 scans, took me about an hour+
    all scans were auto aligned perfectly.
    the model was unpainted so it was total white.
    scan.jpg

  3. #3
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    241
    Can you tell more about the original dino,
    like size colour, and how you scanned it, it looks very good

  4. #4
    the original dino is 30cm X 15cm
    it is actually this model :
    http://www.collecta.gr/dino/dino-all...40-detail.html

    but my model was unpainted , just white.
    In freescan mode, medium quality , i rotated the dino a LOT of times (57)
    I left the scanner in the calibrated position and on the turntable i rotated the dino by hand in all his angles to get the hidden spots.

  5. #5
    Engineer-in-Training Hugues's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Switzerland
    Posts
    219
    Quote Originally Posted by airguy View Post
    ...
    I left the scanner in the calibrated position and on the turntable i rotated the dino by hand in all his angles to get the hidden spots.
    Nice scan. Congrats.

    You don't need to leave the scanner in the calibrated position. Myself i free scan for the past few weeks and calibrated only once.

  6. #6
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Chorley, UK
    Posts
    133
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    Yes, that's a nice scan, nicely focussed detail, so well done. (y)
    Did you mesh it from the point cloud .asc files or use the auto align function in the software?
    I found the optical distance from scanner to surface is around 430mm to get a clean focus on the black & white unphase lines, and I think it helps if you don't deviate too much from the previous scan.
    I made a mistake on my first free scans by having the scanner too far away from the object, and I'm sure it decreased the surface resolution, and I noticed surface artefacts too. Anybody else have a recommended distance?
    57 scans seems a lot, as 8 is for the typical turntable scan, but moving the camera higher and lower is more beneficial to get easier alignment, than doing the equivalent of one planar rotation, then flipping the object. It definitely seems to work better moving the scanner around.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by 24c View Post
    Yes, that's a nice scan, nicely focussed detail, so well done. (y)
    Did you mesh it from the point cloud .asc files or use the auto align function in the software?
    I found the optical distance from scanner to surface is around 430mm to get a clean focus on the black & white unphase lines, and I think it helps if you don't deviate too much from the previous scan.
    I made a mistake on my first free scans by having the scanner too far away from the object, and I'm sure it decreased the surface resolution, and I noticed surface artefacts too. Anybody else have a recommended distance?
    57 scans seems a lot, as 8 is for the typical turntable scan, but moving the camera higher and lower is more beneficial to get easier alignment, than doing the equivalent of one planar rotation, then flipping the object. It definitely seems to work better moving the scanner around.
    Thank you i guess i got luck on that !
    I did auto align that worked like a charm , but i also saved the .asc files in case i needed them.
    How can i do the alignment manually with .asc files ??? is there a tutorial somewhere ???
    Since i didn't move from the calibration position although i was in free mode my distance was close to 430-500mm and i never moved the scanner , i was only repositioning the model.
    I also thought that 57 scans were a lot but there were many hidden angles and i was too lazy to setup the scanner on the tripod ...
    The model was 99% scanned and only about 1% of the surface was left to auto water tight. Especially the area inside the mouth was very hard !
    I had around 10-12 scans to get the inside....

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Hugues View Post
    Nice scan. Congrats.

    You don't need to leave the scanner in the calibrated position. Myself i free scan for the past few weeks and calibrated only once.
    I know , i didn't have much space on the table and i was too lazy to take it apart and connect it again...

  9. #9
    Technologist
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    124
    This is the biggest scan I've done so far at 216mm in height. It took 3 passes on the turntable at various angles.
    I used Meshmixer to lightly smooth a couple of areas where the alignment left marks but any remaining creases or wrinkles are from the original part and not scan artifacts.

    Necklace stand





  10. #10
    I still struggle to scan flat circular objects, which is the most popular type of thing I scan (usually a replacement cover for something). I'm using a piece of plywood with gentle grain to help orient upon turning the object around. I use a binder clip to prop hold the circular object upright so it's standing on edge. Interestingly, binder clips completely vanish from scans, the scanner can't see them at all (great for me). With this setup, I can at least get a few sets of scans that I am trying to clean up with Meshlab/Meshmixer.

    Also, I used to have a lot of problems with dark black plastic items (either matte or gloss). Others have recommended some expensive sprays to cover the surface. A light dusting from a can of Tinactin foot spray is working great for me, and it wipes off clean later!

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