Itty Bitty Double Extruder

[clough42]

Hi, I'm having an issue when it comes to the ABL. I've had it before (I used Zenmasters ABL when it came out) but the new probe for the IBDE catches on the glass and doesn't retract all the way.

Is there a way to have it lift before retracting?

Yes. There's a link to firmware in the first post of this thread, with a configuration.h file for the double extruder. You'll need to tune the Z offset, of course.

This is a fork of the beckdac fork of Marlin, with Roxy's enhancements, including lifting before retracting the probe. My fork just adds config files for my extruders.

[Gogomjdevil]

Yes. There's a link to firmware in the first post of this thread, with a configuration.h file for the double extruder. You'll need to tune the Z offset, of course.

This is a fork of the beckdac fork of Marlin, with Roxy's enhancements, including lifting before retracting the probe. My fork just adds config files for my extruders.

That's what I'm using. It lifts before retracting when it does a homing routine, but when I run a g29 it doesn't lift to retract and ends up getting stuck. I set the firmware to lift it higher before each time the probe moves and that works up until the last probe. It gets stuck there.


Thank you for your help though. I really appreciate it.

EDIT: Well...I feel silly. I had the screws holding the end stop facing the hot end. I moved them to the other side and apparently that was what was causing it to bind.

[avluis]

I have been meaning to put together my IBDE for a few days now but I have to wait for two .3mm hexagon nozzles (yes, I broke one off somehow) so I am on the stock configuration as I await with anticipation (will have to order a hexagon block as well if I can't get a bit of brass left by the broken nozzle).

But (of course) I am having a bit of trouble managing to print the double hexagon shroud and (to a certain extent) the part cooling double shroud;
- I cannot manage to remove this part without breaking it (LOL) under a 0.2mm layer height setting so I printed it under 0.3mm and managed not to break it:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/xmgcu6c9o...-L3FF8T5Y_dzPa
Looking for tips on how to manage a strong 0.2mm layer height (I would love to get a good slic3r config, might as well).

- As for the part cooling double shroud, I think I may be extruding too much filament;
The part that interlocks with the IBDE (the shroud mount) came out a bit bigger than expected (or is this expected - just need to shave it down I guess).

All of my parts (so far) have been printed with Black ABS from MakerFarm.

[clough42]

I have been meaning to put together my IBDE for a few days now but I have to wait for two .3mm hexagon nozzles (yes, I broke one off somehow) so I am on the stock configuration as I await with anticipation (will have to order a hexagon block as well if I can't get a bit of brass left by the broken nozzle).

But (of course) I am having a bit of trouble managing to print the double hexagon shroud and (to a certain extent) the part cooling double shroud;
- I cannot manage to remove this part without breaking it (LOL) under a 0.2mm layer height setting so I printed it under 0.3mm and managed not to break it:
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/xmgcu6c9o...-L3FF8T5Y_dzPa
Looking for tips on how to manage a strong 0.2mm layer height (I would love to get a good slic3r config, might as well).

- As for the part cooling double shroud, I think I may be extruding too much filament;
The part that interlocks with the IBDE (the shroud mount) came out a bit bigger than expected (or is this expected - just need to shave it down I guess).

All of my parts (so far) have been printed with Black ABS from MakerFarm.

What slicer are you using?

The wall thickness on those parts is 1.2mm, which yields excellent results with a .4mm nozzle, .2mm layers and Slic3r 1.1.7 stable. It generates a perimeter on each side and fills in the space between them, resulting in a very solid part. I have found that Slic3r 1.2.6 experimental gives very different results. It generates just the two parallel perimeter walls, with no fill to connect them. The resulting part is very flexible and brittle.

Are you getting two walls that peel apart easily?

If so, you might try a different slicer or changing the extrusion width to get a good join between the walls. It sounds like increasing the layer height also resulted in a better part?

[avluis]

You are dead on about slic3r 1.2.6 - I love the speed at which it slices but it is leaving no infill between the inner walls as you mentioned.
I'll go ahead and try those settings with 1.1.7.

Is 40% infill sufficient to get a good and strong part?
I'm thinking about printing a few parts with support material just to give me a stronger bond while removing it off the printer.

[stridera]

I've been having issues as well. Maybe it's just me but the parts seem far too brittle for me. Not to mention it cracked far too easily on the layers.

Also, it looks like the parts are cooling too quickly? (I'm using Makerfarm ABS.) I'm using the latest slicer with makerfarms config. Any advice? (Attached images for reference)

I was thinking of getting a heat lamp and having it shine on the print, think this would help?

[sniffle]

I've been having issues as well. Maybe it's just me but the parts seem far too brittle for me. Not to mention it cracked far too easily on the layers.

Also, it looks like the parts are cooling too quickly? (I'm using Makerfarm ABS.) I'm using the latest slicer with makerfarms config. Any advice? (Attached images for reference)

I was thinking of getting a heat lamp and having it shine on the print, think this would help?

That looks like warping, i would suggest trying to prevent drafts and also increase your hotend/bed temps, it will help with intralayer adhesion, but wont prevent warping which a cardboard box iver the printer or just something surrounding the printer to prevent drafts from hittng the print will help.

A heatlamp might work but it wont prevent sudden shrinkage from a draft blowing across the part. the trick to ABS is preventing any part of it to cool before it as a whole cools together. so that it can shrink all at once.

[stridera]

I'm using Slicer 0.9.9 (which colin says to use because anything past that will cause problems.)

Is this an issue?

[clough42]

I'm using Slicer 0.9.9 (which colin says to use because anything past that will cause problems.)

Is this an issue?

Yeah...he says that. I get the best results with 1.1.7. .4mm nozzle, .2mm layers, 40% infill.

Is that a .4mm nozzle?

The other thing that sometimes causes a mess with the fan shrouds is bed adhesion. If the bottom pops off the bed before the part is done, it shifts, showing horizontal offsets like in your photos. More hair spr s y, maybe. Bed temp at 110 and nozzle at 250 (hexagon).

For best results, keep all stray air off the bed while printing, AND provide carefully controlled air with a print cooling fan after about 4-5mm of height to prevent d r ooping. I know...It's rough. You're still trying to print the parts to help control the air.

[stridera]

Yup, I have the .4mm nozzle. I had it set to 60% infil with .2mm layers. I reprinted with support material and the curved parts at the top looked great, however, the straight sides were still brittle. I'm thinking if I make the double the layers maybe? It looks like it goes from thin to sturdy near the top. I didn't take pictures of my latest print. (Cracked the side walls while trying to clean off the raft.

Do you do print cooling on both abs and pla?