Quote Originally Posted by BLKKROW View Post
Would you raise the printing bed slightly? Or fix the Z-stop within Slic3r?
Either of those would work. Probably easier to do it in Slic3r if your bed is already level and it's just the gap that is off. I don't know how your bed is assembled but mine has one fixed corner and 3 that are adjustable. Once the bed is nice an level, it's very tedious to adjust those three screws again to just raise it.

If you can raise yours with one adjuster or raise it a tad in the 'configuration.h' file that would be easy.

My printer also has a manual adjuster for the z-stop. A small turn one way and the head will move slightly closer to the bed. A small turn the other way and the head will stop a tad farther away from the glass. By making tiny tweaks I'm able to get a perfect gap with one screw. That is my preferred method. So if I change glass to one that is thicker, I just turn that z-stop out so the gap is bigger (too big as a starting place), put the glass in and run the hot end down to 'G1 Z0' and see what the gap is. I'll then lower it little by little by turning that z-stop screw until it's perfect.

It depends on how your printer is designed to find the most direct method for tweaking that gap. But I'd guess that using the setting in Slic3r is as easy as any. Just have a finger near the power button should you have that setting too far off and your hot end starts to be driven into the bed. I'm sure you've read this everywhere but the thickness of a sheet of paper as a starting point is what you want. It should have just a tad bit of resistance as you pull it out. If the hot end pins the paper to the bed, it's too small of a gap.

Once you use the paper, you can then fine tune if you find it needs a tweak. Your first layer should not be round, it needs to be flattened so its being pushed into the bed. But too small of a gap and it either restricts filament flow or drags a thin film. That's too thin.