Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[Syd_Khaos]

And to top it off you're now using that higher priced Raptor stuff. Just a perfect storm there. Maybe Talon is right and there will be a pent-up demand hitting soon? I've tried using the Raptor again here and so far, no jams. (More salt over left shoulder and knocking on wood colored Formica.)

Pokemon Go crazy people around here are banging on the door for Bulbasaur, Squirtle and Charmander etc. Maybe there is some demand for them down your way... I just discovered that I can "paint" on PLA or ABS with metallic marker pens. It's solid color, goes on easy and once dry, stays there. I am using the pens for coloring eyes and toenails / claws etc. on Pokemon thingys.

Go to WalMart or Home Depot and get a can of Krylon Fusion. It has a very light adhesion promotor in it that works perfect on ABS, PLA, and PeTG. It is pretty cheap too, $4 a can. A real light coat of that stuff (Im talking light, just a bit more than a duster coat) and you can paint on it with ANYTHING....autobody paint, acrillic craft paint...anything.

Go one step further and get yourself some Elmers wood filler putty (the cheap indoor stuff will work just fine). Do a thin coat of that and a quick sanding with some high grit paper, then base coat of Fusion and watever ya want for topcoat.
End result is something you would never guess came out of a 3D printer.

[wirlybird]

Cool thanks, I changed it.
I got much better results this time after adjusting the settings outlined in previous msgs on here. Thanks everyone.
It sticks now with the bed at 80c.
Here are my pics of benchy.

Any thoughts?
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Coming along! I would reduce bed temp after the first or second layer still looks like to hot. Maybe try reducing the bed temp and print a few layers and see how it sticks. Don't change anything but the temp. I did have to run a higher starter temp on the blue but wasn't using glue or anything.

Another thing for PLA I would suggest removing the clear sides, top and front. Get some airflow!

Keep at it!! Going good! It will start to come together. 1 tip, resist making to many changes at the same time. Make a change, test and see the result.

[Talon 3D]

Thanks for the info and help.
I lowered the bed temp. I print PLA with the top and sides off.

It is sticking so far. Fingers crossed. Once I get this dialed in for PLA I will run one of those dual blower setups in PetG to help cool PLA better. The one that was posted here that sits behind the extruders looks perfect.

Coming along! I would reduce bed temp after the first or second layer still looks like to hot. Maybe try reducing the bed temp and print a few layers and see how it sticks. Don't change anything but the temp. I did have to run a higher starter temp on the blue but wasn't using glue or anything.

Another thing for PLA I would suggest removing the clear sides, top and front. Get some airflow!

Keep at it!! Going good! It will start to come together. 1 tip, resist making to many changes at the same time. Make a change, test and see the result.

[Talon 3D]

The metallic marker pens do work great that is what I use to touch up the kids toys. It doesn't wear off.

The krylon stuff works great as well for a base. Excellent advice I will try this all on my prints.

Go to WalMart or Home Depot and get a can of Krylon Fusion. It has a very light adhesion promotor in it that works perfect on ABS, PLA, and PeTG. It is pretty cheap too, $4 a can. A real light coat of that stuff (Im talking light, just a bit more than a duster coat) and you can paint on it with ANYTHING....autobody paint, acrillic craft paint...anything.

Go one step further and get yourself some Elmers wood filler putty (the cheap indoor stuff will work just fine). Do a thin coat of that and a quick sanding with some high grit paper, then base coat of Fusion and watever ya want for topcoat.
End result is something you would never guess came out of a 3D printer.

[Syd_Khaos]

The metallic marker pens do work great that is what I use to touch up the kids toys. It doesn't wear off.

The krylon stuff works great as well for a base. Excellent advice I will try this all on my prints.

Something worth mentioning....
They do make stuff (mainly for autobody stuff) that is just pure adhesion promotor in a spray can. DO NOT use this on prints. It will disfigure ABS and PLA very badly.
This is why I like the Fusion stuff, its got just enough promotor to make any paint stick, but not enough to adversly effect the plastic.

Also got to be really careful when using top/clear coat, as ALOT of those will be really aggressive and detramental to these plastics. There is a great one I found though, solid clearcoat, great gloss, and can spray it directly onto a print as its silicone based. Its also made by Krylon, just says 'low oder clear coat' on the can. Get it at a hobby shop (I get it from HobbyLobby, but any arts n crafts store should have it). Look for it in painting section, as its made to go over oil pantings and such.

[DaveB]

Thanks for the info and help.
I lowered the bed temp. I print PLA with the top and sides off.

It is sticking so far. Fingers crossed. Once I get this dialed in for PLA I will run one of those dual blower setups in PetG to help cool PLA better. The one that was posted here that sits behind the extruders looks perfect.

I'm pretty sure that I am in the minority here, but when printing fine detail in ABS I use the blower. When I do not use the blower on ABS I often have issues with small overhangs turning upwards into the nozzle. When that happens, eventually the nozzle crashes into the part being printed and often detaches the part from the bed.

Does anyone else here run a blower with ABS?

[Talon 3D]

Good to know. I didn't think about that.

Something worth mentioning....
They do make stuff (mainly for autobody stuff) that is just pure adhesion promotor in a spray can. DO NOT use this on prints. It will disfigure ABS and PLA very badly.
This is why I like the Fusion stuff, its got just enough promotor to make any paint stick, but not enough to adversly effect the plastic.

Also got to be really careful when using top/clear coat, as ALOT of those will be really aggressive and detramental to these plastics. There is a great one I found though, solid clearcoat, great gloss, and can spray it directly onto a print as its silicone based. Its also made by Krylon, just says 'low oder clear coat' on the can. Get it at a hobby shop (I get it from HobbyLobby, but any arts n crafts store should have it). Look for it in painting section, as its made to go over oil pantings and such.

[Talon 3D]

I have not needed to.
ABS I seem to have dialed in.

I'm pretty sure that I am in the minority here, but when printing fine detail in ABS I use the blower. When I do not use the blower on ABS I often have issues with small overhangs turning upwards into the nozzle. When that happens, eventually the nozzle crashes into the part being printed and often detaches the part from the bed.

Does anyone else here run a blower with ABS?

[Talon 3D]

Ok. This print is better. Be temp 60, extruder 195.
I'm thinking to drop the extrusion temp to 180.
Do you think that would clear up the rest or am I missing something?
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[Talon 3D]

Ok. This print is better. Be temp 60, extruder 195.
I'm thinking to drop the extrusion temp to 180.
Do you think that would clear up the rest or am I missing something?
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