Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[sygyzy]

A million times yes! It's very hard to find a proper 1/8" shim that fits the QIDI Tech. I've tried slicing off 1/8" from the standard 1/4" shims but due to how they are modeled (or my bad editing), it produces "thin ceilings" sort to speak.

Edit: The reason I went with 1/8" glass is that's the standard depth of glass. I went to a framing shop and they said all their glass is 1/8" and 1/4" is "only used for mirrors, typically". I didn't want to pay $20 + shipping for 1/4" glass from McMaster. Where did you guys all get your 1/4" glass? I am surprised that's the standard.

I prefer the 1/4" glass, I figure it is stronger and I'm less likely to break it. And really do you think the 1/8" build height will make that much of a difference? I haven't had the need to print anything at the maximum build height yet.

Also sygyzy has had a hard time finding a Z-Axis shim that will work for the 1/8" glass... I'm supposed to modify the design of one I made for 1/8" glass but haven't had time yet. Hopefully this weekend.

[KludgeGuru]

Where did you guys all get your 1/4" glass? I am surprised that's the standard.

I ordered a kit from makersome.com and paid $40 for it. I was kicking myself once I realized I could get it from McMaster for $20... should have known to check there first. The kit came with the Z-Axis shim and the corner mounts which neither worked for me and I had to print my own. The glass corners aren't even square and it fits on my bed a little crooked, I've been debating order some glass from McMaster but I've already spent enough on the printer as it is.
http://makersome.com/store/glass-bed-upgrade-kit/

I went to a framing shop and they said all their glass is 1/8" and 1/4" is "only used for mirrors, typically".

Can anybody think of a reason not to use a mirror to print on? Will the standard 1/4" mirror glass stand up to the heat cycling? I've also been thinking of going to a local glass shop to see how much it would cost to cut me a couple extra.

[Syd_Khaos]

A million times yes! It's very hard to find a proper 1/8" shim that fits the QIDI Tech. I've tried slicing off 1/8" from the standard 1/4" shims but due to how they are modeled (or my bad editing), it produces "thin ceilings" sort to speak.

Edit: The reason I went with 1/8" glass is that's the standard depth of glass. I went to a framing shop and they said all their glass is 1/8" and 1/4" is "only used for mirrors, typically". I didn't want to pay $20 + shipping for 1/4" glass from McMaster. Where did you guys all get your 1/4" glass? I am surprised that's the standard.

I ordered a 1/4" plate from MCMasterCar. Seems like the majority of those printing on glass are doing so on either 5mm or 1/4" plates.
For me it was also easy choice due to what there is locally. Best stuff I can get intown is some cooking grade 'pyrex' glass. The stuff McMasterCar sells is double tempered borosilicate glass, its couple grades above the cooking stuff.

What software are you using to try and modify the shims? I didnt have any issues shaving a bit off the shim in Blender.

[sygyzy]

I am using Tinkercad. Mind you, it's not just shrinking the height that's the problem. Depending on the design (like if it fits over a lip or is "multi-tiered", you might end up with either too little plastic left (weak, thing ceilings, floors) or the measurements are off. I am not saying it can't be done and yes it seems really simple but I just had issues. I might just stick with the one Kludge made and try to account for the extra spacing with the adjustment screws. I hope they have enough travel.

Edit: What was your shipping cost for the 9x6 1/4" glass from McMasterCarr? Also, does anyone know if the bed sizes for the Qidi differs from the Flashforge? All the corner brackets I have seen on Thingiverse are designed for glass that is too small for the base. Like people buy 9x6" glass but the bed is slightly larger so it creates like a lip. So confusing. Here's an example - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:613685

[Syd_Khaos]

I am using Tinkercad. Mind you, it's not just shrinking the height that's the problem. Depending on the design (like if it fits over a lip or is "multi-tiered", you might end up with either too little plastic left (weak, thing ceilings, floors) or the measurements are off. I am not saying it can't be done and yes it seems really simple but I just had issues. I might just stick with the one Kludge made and try to account for the extra spacing with the adjustment screws. I hope they have enough travel.

Edit: What was your shipping cost for the 9x6 1/4" glass from McMasterCarr? Also, does anyone know if the bed sizes for the Qidi differs from the Flashforge? All the corner brackets I have seen on Thingiverse are designed for glass that is too small for the base. Like people buy 9x6" glass but the bed is slightly larger so it creates like a lip. So confusing. Here's an example - http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:613685

Does TinkerCAD not allow you to scale mesh on a single axis? I have never used it before.
When I redid my z-shim I just loaded it in, layed it 'flat' and scaled it on z axis only.
It really does not have to be super durable. Not alot of pressure being applied to the shim in normal operation.

Was $6-7 for shipping on the glass from McMasterCar, somewhere in there, dont recall exactly.

edit:
If your having issues scaling the shim down you could always just lower the area that touches the limiter switch. You really only need the little bit that contacts the limiter (and like 5mm on each side for breathing room) to be the correct height. May be a workaround for the flimsy issues you were having.

[kaznad]

You can order ever part in the machine directly from Qidi, so its actually very easy to get anything you need to fix or maintain the machine.
The machine does throw off some heat, esp if printing higher melting point plastics. Its pretty easy to make a vent hood to deal with the heat though. However I would not suggest setting it up next to a PC, certainly not a gaming PC thats gonna be generating its own fair share of heat to deal with.

I wouldn't worry to much about the machine collecting dust. If anything you should worry about your drones gathering dust once you get a printer....this is not a hobby, its a very deep-rooted addiction.

Hi, thanks for the info. I guess you are right, next to the PC might not be a good idea.

I am very close to ordering the printer, the only thing is that the outlook of the printer is not very appealing. It almost looks like a toaster oven. haha.

[sygyzy]

You got us. Maybe this printer isn't for you.

[dspdrew]

Left Extruder:

; **** Replicator 2X start.gcode ****
M73 P0 ; Enable build progress
G162 X Y F3000 ; Home XY maximum
G161 Z F1200 ; Home Z minimum
G92 Z-5 ; Set Z to -5
G1 Z0 ; Move Z to 0
G161 Z F100 ; Home Z slowly
M132 X Y Z A B ; Recall home offsets
M135 T0 ; Load right extruder offsets
G1 X-110 Y-75 Z30 F9000 ; Move to wait position off table
G130 X20 Y20 Z20 A20 B20 ; Lower stepper Vrefs while heating
M126 S[fan_speed_pwm] ; Set fan speed
M140 S[bed0_temperature] T0 ; Heat buildplate
M134 T0 ; Stabilize bed temperature
M104 S[extruder1_temperature] T1 ; Heat left extruder
M133 T1 ; Stabilize left extruder temperature
G130 X127 Y127 Z40 A127 B127 ; Default stepper Vrefs
G92 A0 B0 ; Zero extruders
M135 T1 ; Load left extruder offsets
G1 X-100 Y-65 F9000 ; Move to front left corner of bed
G1 Z0.3 F6000 ; Move down to purge
G1 X90 Y-65 E24 F2000 ; Extrude a line of filament across the front edge of the bed
G1 X100 Y-65 F180 ; Wait for ooze
G1 X110 Y-65 F5000 ; Fast wipe
G1 Z1 F100 ; Lift
G92 A0 B0 ; zero extruders
M73 P1 ;@body (notify GPX body has started)
; **** end of start.gcode ****

Right Extruder:

; **** Replicator 2X start.gcode ****
M73 P0 ; Enable build progress
G162 X Y F3000 ; Home XY maximum
G161 Z F1200 ; Home Z minimum
G92 Z-5 ; Set Z to -5
G1 Z0 ; Move Z to 0
G161 Z F100 ; Home Z slowly
M132 X Y Z A B ; Recall home offsets
M135 T0 ; Load right extruder offsets
G1 X-110 Y-75 Z30 F9000 ; Move to wait position off table
G130 X20 Y20 Z20 A20 B20 ; Lower stepper Vrefs while heating
M126 S[fan_speed_pwm] ; Set fan speed
M140 S[bed0_temperature] T0 ; Heat buildplate
M134 T0 ; Stabilize bed temperature
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; Heat right extruder
M133 T0 ; Stabilize extruder temperature
G130 X127 Y127 Z40 A127 B127 ; Default stepper Vref
G92 A0 B0 ; Zero extruders
G1 X100 Y-70 F9000 ; Move to front right corner of bed
G1 Z0.3 F6000 ; Move down to purge
G1 X-90 Y-70 E24 F2000 ; Extrude a line of filament across the front edge of the bed
G1 X-100 Y-70 F180 ; Wait for ooze
G1 X-110 Y-70 F5000 ; Fast wipe
G1 Z0.5 F100 ; Lift
G92 A0 B0 ; Zero extruders
M73 P1 ;@body (notify GPX body has started)
; **** end of start.gcode ****

Both Extruders:

; **** Replicator 2X start.gcode ****
M73 P0 ; Enable build progress
G162 X Y F3000 ; Home XY maximum
G161 Z F1200 ; Home Z minimum
G92 Z-5 ; Set Z to -5
G1 Z0 ; Move Z to 0
G161 Z F100 ; Home Z slowly
M132 X Y Z A B ; Recall home offsets
M135 T0 ; Load right extruder offsets
G1 X-110 Y-75 Z30 F9000 ; Move to wait position off table
G130 X20 Y20 Z20 A20 B20 ; Lower stepper Vrefs while heating
M126 S[fan_speed_pwm] ; Set fan speed
M140 S[bed0_temperature] T0 ; Heat buildplate 
M134 T0 ; Stabilize bed temperature
M104 S[extruder0_temperature] T0 ; Heat right extruder
M104 S[extruder1_temperature] T1 ; Heat left extruder
M133 T0 ; Stabilize right extruder temperature
M133 T1 ; Stabilize left extruder temperature
G130 X127 Y127 Z40 A127 B127 ; Default stepper Vrefs
G92 A0 B0 ; Zero extruders
G1 X100 Y-70 F9000 ; Move to front right corner of bed
G1 Z0.3 F6000 ; Move down to purge
G1 X-90 Y-70 E24 F2000 ; Extrude a line of filament across the front edge of the bed
G1 X-100 Y-70 F180 ; Wait for ooze
G1 X-110 Y-70 F5000 ; Fast wipe
G1 Z0.5 F100 ; Lift
G92 A0 B0 ; Zero extruders
M135 T1 ; Load left extruder offsets
G1 X-100 Y-65 F9000 ; Move to front left corner of bed
G1 Z0.3 F6000 ; Move down to purge
G1 X90 Y-65 E24 F2000 ; Extrude a line of filament across the front edge of the bed
G1 X100 Y-65 F180 ; Wait for ooze
G1 X110 Y-65 F5000 ; Fast wipe
G1 Z1 F100 ; Lift
G92 A0 B0 ; Zero extruders
M73 P1 ;@body (notify GPX body has started)
; **** end of start.gcode ****

Can someone confirm if these settings are correct with all these left and right extruder inconsistencies?

Edit: Actually it looks like whoever made these settings in the first place had their left extruder named T1 and their right extruder T0 for some reason.

Edit: I just tried these scripts in my gcode, and the head banged into the far left side.

[kaznad]

You got us. Maybe this printer isn't for you.

I was just kidding buddy.

I have already sent an offer to the ebay store, let's hope they reply soon.

[KludgeGuru]

I just tried these scripts in my gcode, and the head banged into the far left side.

I originally had that problem and found that I had to change this line of code in each of the scripts:

G1 X-110 Y-75 Z30 F9000 ; Move to wait position off table

It used to be X-130, changing it to X-110 solved the problem of the head hitting the far left side. If yours is still doing that reduce it to maybe X-105 and try again.