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Thread: swapping to glass bed
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02-22-2015, 05:23 PM #11
- Join Date
- Dec 2014
- Posts
- 61
In my last post I was referring to the piece that goes onto the z axis than stevendm linked to in this thread. Even 3mm is alot to adjust the bed leveling screws for. Perhaps you could compensate with a z axis offset but I have a feeling that the home command ignores it. You can only put it in firmware if you will be using it all the time.
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02-22-2015, 07:30 PM #12
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Location
- Texas, USA
- Posts
- 17
There are other shims on thingiverse to account for glass thinner than 6mm. Just search for "creator glass shim" or something like that. Or just try http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:557994. I posted the one I did because my glass is 6mm thick.
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02-23-2015, 11:02 AM #13
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 93
i have tried the shims etc, but as i cannot undo the nuts or the hex head bolts, i cannot even put the corner clips in to hold the glass, this is why i originally asked if im missing something. i have tried all possible ways, the only other option would be forced removal with a breaker bar, but im still at a loss as to the center one, as the gap is way to small for any thing other than a spanner, or in undoing the sprin loaded bolts (the ones that level the build plate) will the plate then be removable, this is something i nneed to know as if it goes wrong how do i fix it....
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02-23-2015, 11:30 AM #14
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 93
for those that are interested,
yes if you remove the 4 leveling nuts the bed does just come off (after you disconnect the plug at the back)
the remove the alu for the heater pad, its a size 2 allen key and a 7/32 spanner or socket.
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03-03-2015, 12:38 PM #15
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 93
right so i now have a glass print bed,
im printing using pla,yes geoff i know your not a fan of that combo, im using a pva (pritt stick) on the glass and the print are sticking great, in fact sticking to great i nearly broke the glass the other day trying to remove a print.
so bed is heated to 60 pla is at 195, anything colder and i get the click click click of it getting stuck.
where am i going wrong, what can i do to ease removal, even after 4 hours by a cold wind it was stuck solid.
edit: its actually PolyVinyl Pyrrolidone (PVP) im using.Last edited by Ghosty; 03-03-2015 at 12:59 PM.
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03-03-2015, 03:34 PM #16
I take it that a Pritt Stick is the UK equivalent of an Elmer's Glue stick? Put it in the freezer for about 5 minutes and it should literally fall right off...
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03-03-2015, 04:25 PM #17
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- California
- Posts
- 28
I might be able to help...
I like using hairspray... specifically Aqua net extra hold without scent. I spray it on my bed and let it dry. It's super easy and the prints come off really easy after it cools. A lot of times they release on their own. I have an instructional project on my site that might be of help for those looking for info on the glass bed upgrade. Check it out....
http://makersome.com/project/717
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03-05-2015, 11:41 AM #18
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
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- 93
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03-22-2015, 04:00 PM #19
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 93
so after a few weeks of trial and error (on my part), i now have a fully (well sort of fully, ill explain later) working printer.
for those that are just catching up, i have completly removed the alu plate (unplug the electrics at the back, then undo the 4 leveling screws and the heated pad and alu plate pop off, then using a 7/32 spanner and a size 2 allen key you can undo all the bits required), i have then had 3mm float (same as picture frame) glass cut to size (using my now removed alu bed as a guide), using the corner brackets (link is in a previous post) modified in makerware to the correct z height, i now have a fully removable glass build plate (or 3) that requires no z shim etc, the only thing i would mention is dont over tighten the screws when installing the corner brackets, as the heated plate is not as strong as it looks.
so now thats out of the way, hows it going ??? well its actually going very good, i have now realised i dont have to heat the build plate at all, a simple run over with the PVP stick and all is stuck fine (still sticking like crazy), still have to work that part out, besides that im getting great prints, finally.
only issue i now have is im retting a lot of clicking (similar to when the feed is stuck) from the left stepper, i have taken the unit apart, and cleaned (even replaced) the toothed part, and its still happening, however it is still extruding pla, both in the pre print ozze strip and when printing, this only happens for the base (bottom 3 layers) and after that its fine. so etier its mis feeding, or im again missing something.
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03-22-2015, 04:39 PM #20
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
- Posts
- 83
I'm a 60C heat and hair-spray guy, myself. I've been having great results in the cooler dryer winter weather that way for my PLA printing. As it warms and moistens up, I figure I'll have to adjust things again. Last summer I was running mostly ABS.
Cheers,
John
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