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  1. #11
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AbuMaia View Post
    I found it easy to tension the Y belt, I just used a spring clamp to pull the Y motor to the rear, then tightened the motor mount bolts. The X belt was harder to tension, as there's not much room to get a good pull on the X motor. I've been thinking up a redesign of the X belt idler so one can turn a bolt to adjust the X belt tension.
    But isn't there a risk that you can get too tight on the belts? That was part of the basis about it being hard to get the right tension - that you want enough but not too much. And again, my belts are now tighter than ever, but I can't say that's made a difference.

    Remember that the ringing effect is showing up when the printer has only moved a millimeter or less in the lateral axis. Acceleration and deceleration should have kept the speed for that small of a distance pretty low, at least in the meager bit I understand Marlin move planning. Again - I can understand ringing on major 90 degree corners, but not so easily on cases like shallow recesses for lettering or holes on thin walls.

    ------

    My four-sided ringing test print is complete. First, I realized that the case I printed yesterday had small radius rounded corners, so not having ringing there is no surprise. The test object had an identical notch and round hole on all four sides of a cube. Pretty equal ringing on all four sides. I'm not sure pictures will reveal details well, but I may try to take some in the morning.

  2. #12
    Engineer-in-Training beerdart's Avatar
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    For Our Y tension I slotted the bearing end and add two eye bolts through the frame to the bearing attach screw.

  3. #13
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beerdart View Post
    For Our Y tension I slotted the bearing end and add two eye bolts through the frame to the bearing attach screw.
    Please answer the more important part. How do you know when you've tightened the belt enough? That's really what people want/need to know.

  4. #14
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    Printbus, you raise a good question. I have always wondered if mine are too tight or not enough, with finding very few actual answers online.

    I know that on my y axis, making the belt any tighter starts to warp the rear y bracket, to me that's too tight then. Both my belts are tight, and produce a very low "sprung" noise when plucked, but I always wonder if they could be better!

  5. #15
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    OK - just ran another of my test prints. XY jerk set to 2 (effectively allowing no jerk). Overall acceleration set to 400. Top speed in Simplify 3D 70 mm/sec. On the cube, everything is a perimeter, so printing is going at best half that. Still getting a lot of the artifacts around the holes and notches. Something definitely other than mechanical ringing is involved IMO. Mechanical ringing might be part of it, but it's not the whole story.

    EDIT: It's almost as if what is really happening is temperature of the extruded filament varying a bit as the extruder slows down and speeds back up.
    Last edited by printbus; 01-20-2015 at 09:52 PM.

  6. #16
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    As far as I know nobody's come up with a universal metric for determining "proper" belt tension. I did find one tool for measuring tension on Thingiverse, but I've not tried it yet.

  7. #17
    Engineer-in-Training beerdart's Avatar
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    I dont know the sweet spot but ours is tension-ed so its difficult to force it to the table pushing down in the center of the long loop.
    Quote Originally Posted by printbus View Post
    Please answer the more important part. How do you know when you've tightened the belt enough? That's really what people want/need to know.

  8. #18
    Engineer-in-Training beerdart's Avatar
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    I could see where a longer heat soak on the filament would cause more ooze as the hotend is traveling slower.
    Quote Originally Posted by printbus View Post
    OK - just ran another of my test prints. XY jerk set to 2 (effectively allowing no jerk). Overall acceleration set to 400. Top speed in Simplify 3D 70 mm/sec. On the cube, everything is a perimeter, so printing is going at best half that. Still getting a lot of the artifacts around the holes and notches. Something definitely other than mechanical ringing is involved IMO. Mechanical ringing might be part of it, but it's not the whole story.

    EDIT: It's almost as if what is really happening is temperature of the extruded filament varying a bit as the extruder slows down and speeds back up.

  9. #19
    Staff Engineer printbus's Avatar
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    Vacillation of the pressure in the hot end comes to mind as well.

  10. #20
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    Do you see ringing on the inside of the box as well? That's what I would expect if it had something to do with the extruder.

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