One nozzle works fine, other one oozes a bit, screwing up dual extrusion prints

[curious aardvark]

drop the left temp down to 220 or 225.

The wird thing is that white abs prints lower than other abs and white pla (the stuff I've got anyway) prints alot higher than other pla.

Just finished a test print and my pla only starts to print well at 220plus. Hel it won't even extrude at 195 - my standard pla print temp. (it sticks to a cold bed and doesn't warp or shrink so I'm assuming the pla sticker on it is correct)

But I do remember my white abs printing lower than the other colours.

[Geoff]

drop the left temp down to 220 or 225.

The wird thing is that white abs prints lower than other abs and white pla (the stuff I've got anyway) prints alot higher than other pla.

Just finished a test print and my pla only starts to print well at 220plus. Hel it won't even extrude at 195 - my standard pla print temp. (it sticks to a cold bed and doesn't warp or shrink so I'm assuming the pla sticker on it is correct)

But I do remember my white abs printing lower than the other colours.

I think you need to start checking the types of plastic you have, sounds like it might be the root of your ABS issues and why you could never print with it properly, you have been printing in ABS and PLA and don't know which is which lol. Just smell it, thats the dead giveaway - PLA has such a distinctive smell you can't miss it.

@Soofle6161
This is a pretty common problem, and even on sailfish v1.0 and an old flashforge, the same thing happens.
The problem is, unless the plastic is identical, it will have a slightly different melting point, so you basically need to find the baseline for how low you can actually extrude it. Dropping it a few degrees as he said above won't really help unless you know what you are aiming for.

Start low, and see the lowest heat you can extrude at, do that for both nozzles and it will be slightly different for all your plastics. It did take me some time before I got clean dual colour but I got there eventually.

Printed in ABS and ABS.. on a caveman wooden FF creator...
ddcc.JPG

Now, if it were another machine, I would say go and increase the retract settings, I think the stock retract on a FF is about 4mm@30ms..

Now, not sure in the current sailfish, but I would be changing that to about 6mm@50ms retract, suck it back up faster and enough that when its ready to print there isn't too much required to feed back through.