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  1. #1

    First print on 'new' (used) Qidi x-cf pro. tips please!!

    Here is my first go at 3dbency. It took quite a few level test prints to get PLA to stick at ALL. I ended up doing a -0.15 Z offset that seems to have got me going. However, even with that, it barely took any tweak at all, and it popped off. I feel that its too easy. I have a used textured baseplate. I'm afraid to give it any more negative z because I dont want to crash the nozzle. It seems the M6 ones are harder to find, and I ordered steel ones from qidi direct since I couldnt find any high temp ones on amazon at a M6.

    ANyway, here is what he looks like:

    20240109_195405.jpg20240109_195347.jpg

    First layer is slowed to 10mm/s.
    Temp 210, bed 60

  2. #2
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    The 'Z' offset you've set at -0.15 is nearly a full 0.2 layer height. usually set mine to between 0.0 and +0.02
    Which of the two extruders are you using, the normal one or the high temp one?
    Last edited by Bikeracer2020; 01-10-2024 at 06:07 AM.

  3. #3
    Normal one. But i found the issue. The extruder was not screwed to the gantry. All 5 screws were not engaged. Im surprised the tbing leveled and actually printed two models. While rough... they did finish.

  4. #4
    @Bikeracer2020,I am about to chuck this thing out the window. I have viewed so many videos, and such and nothing stick to the bedplate. Not even new ones. I have tried textured and PEI. I ended up effing up the PEI plate because I kept moving the head closer until I crashed it. It just peels off as it extrudes. Its completely worthless. In fact, the benchy you see above was done with ALL FIVE screws on the extruder completely disengaged. You would wonder how it did anything. But, I actually got it to stick good enough to get a benchy out of it. Now, with the extruder properly installed, I cant get a single layer to stick right at all. I have tried some very simple models, and a level test and its all the same. New bed plates even. I'm using what I thought would be the easiest material, PLA. 210/50, 210/55... zero offset through -0.2 (crash) and nothing sticks. Even the parts that appear to have sticked, it takes barely a flick with the finger, and it pops off. I got lucky and got a couple models to finish, but even with that, i had several pop off part of the way through. Adhesion sucks and ive exhausted everything. I had a stratasys fortus 250m at my work, and that thing was a breeze compared to this. I have to ask the question if these qidi are just crap, and do you have to rely on luck for every print to get anything usable. Or, do you consume $35 bedplates evey time. I'm regretting this. It might even push me to a heart attack. I have had a very few things that drive me to rage, and this is definitely one of them. I need to see some success here, and quick.
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    Last edited by martinav; 01-18-2024 at 01:58 AM.

  5. #5
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    I'm guessing that you used Ideamaker slicer not that it should matter.

    I loaded your 3mf file into Prusaslicer and it shows that it has 4044 open edges, floating bridge anchors, loose extrusions and long bridging extrusions.

    In that orientation you would need supports, is there any reason that you cannot orientate it 90 degrees onto the flat side as in screen shots

    Are you leaving the top off and either removing the door or at least leaving it open for PLA?

    What software did you design the part in?

    I am still using the original PEI plate.
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    Last edited by Bikeracer2020; 01-18-2024 at 03:43 AM.

  6. #6
    Actually, orientation and such is so far down the road. I'm just trying to get a good first layer that will stick worth a damn.

    Yes to the open top.

    I stole the model from thangs.com. I wanted to make something practical, and simple. I had it big side down just for the sake of more surface area to hopfully stick the thing better. If I figure out how to get a descent adhesion, then I will optmize the print. But, the priority at the moment is a good layer 1.

    Thanks for the reply. I'll report back. Stupid me... the PEI had a thin film on it that needed removed. Since it was my first time at this kind of plate, I had no idea what the surface was supposed to feel like. It made much more sense when I peeled off the film. It is about 15m in, and its still going. I see some other issues with some dribbling and such, which I think has to do with the nozzle temp being a bit too high. I'll fiddle with that if the thing finishes, and actually stuck well.

    Thanks again,
    Rod

  7. #7
    Well, i actually have a finished print. Even with the PEI, i can take the model with just two fingers, and barely give it a little tweak ant i pops off easily. i still feel like is way too easy. i used z-offset of -0.05. First layer is reasonable, but there was a couple issues. I had a small blob fall off the nozzle a couple times, and turing a fast non-printing translation, there is some dribble from the nozzle. It dint seem to bother the overall print, however. Any ideas on that?

  8. #8
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    I'm only using plus 0.01 'Z' offset on my printer.

    Have you used the automatic bed levelling procedure that requires initially using the supplied gauge to get the nozzle height?
    Get the bed preheated to your normal printing temp before levelling it.

    There are two levelling choices on the levelling screen, choose the one that ends with the probe checking numerous points. From memory it's the RH choice on the screen.

    Is the BLtouch probe showing a steady red colour and not blinking, if it's blinking then the probe is usually either broken or bent and stuck. New probes are cheap enough on Amazon and best to have a few pares I've found.

    It's normal for parts to easily release once the PEI sheet and bed are cold. Better than having to attack the part with a scraper tool to get it off.
    Good idea to use a paper towel and spritz the plate with some IPA after one or two prints.

    I very rarely take the PEI sheet out to get things off.

    I'm guessing that blobs on the nozzle could be needing a bit more retraction to stop oozing, but I'm not good at diagnosing extruder settings.

    Suggest taking look at Prusaslicer settings for the none Klipper MK 4 PLA settings, should give you a good start, I started there for their ASA settings and find them very good.
    Last edited by Bikeracer2020; 01-19-2024 at 03:33 AM.

  9. #9
    Yes i level every time so its not a question. I did normal manual first to set the 3 spinners, then quick automatic before each print. Im using the qidi slicer to slice and print. I never had a level fail.

    The last print i did with the film removed was acceptable. As long as they continue to stick and not pop off mid print.

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