Warping while printing PEEK

[LeglessPooch]

I recently picked up a CreatBot F430 to print some PEEK parts but I'm having a hell of a time getting the raft to not warp. I'm using UHU on the carbon fiber plate they sent with it. I'm printing at 400C and bed at 145C. Any XP with printing with PEEK would be greatly appreciated. EDIT: I no longer have raft warping problems but now my prints are failing bc the parts aren't sticking to the raft. I'm not sure if I need to recalibrate but I'm going to start there. If anyone else has any ideas they would be appreciated.Thanks for the help!

[curious aardvark]

well looking at the machine and your settings, I'd have to say NONE of it goes hot enough.

Best peek machine I've seen in action had all the settings much much hotter than the f430 is capable of.

THIS is a machine properly designed for PEEK: https://minifactory.fi/3d-printer/
chamber temp - up to 250c - the creatbot does 70c
Nozzle temp up to 470c and heated bed temo up to 250c as well.

Here's a picture of one actually printing PEEK:

mini-factory-printing.jpg

Just not convinced the creatbot is up to full spec for Peek printing.

[LeglessPooch]

And all those temps don't seem to make any sense with any PEEK filament I've seen. It's all between 380-420C for extruders and 100-150C bed temp on everything I've seen. The chamber temp I can definitely see helping but those nozzle and bed temps you mentioned seem too high.

[CSMonkey]

Depending on the grade of PEEK you have, you will be able to print with this machine. It's just case of whether you can control crystallinity during the process.For a "low" temp system which is what you have, you will need a very good support material for adhesion and good cooling to quench the PEEK so you print it amorphous. Then you will need to anneal the final sample to achieve crystallinity and mechanical properties associated with PEEK.
Google 3DGEnce and their materials section. The ESM-10 works great as a PEEK support and the PEEK filament is of a low enough molecular weight and crystalisation time to work with this method.
"High" temp systems allow standard grades of PEEK to crystallise during the process, hence their heated chambers are above the Tg of the material.Alternatively look at Lehman and Voss, Luvocom PEEK. It's modified with additives to make it low warp so is much more forgiving.

Hope that helps.

[curious aardvark]

cheers - helps me anyway :-)
Always something else to learn :-)

[Davo]

We print with PEEK daily. We get good filament from Solvay, and we print with the head at 405C and the bed at 150C on a powder-coated PEI build surface.

For anything larger than 15mm in any direction, we print a dam around the entire model to keep the local air temperature higher than the ~55C we can manage in the chamber. For anything larger than an adult fist, you're going to want something with a chamber at 100C or more (which we don't offer... yet).

Last tip: you want to basically anneal the PEEK part after printing and any cleanup; by heating and then slowly letting the temperature drop, you cause longer crystals to form, increasing strength and making the finish more uniform in color.

[sgd]

I weirdly I found with PEEK lowering my bed temp to 140 degrees C helped massively with adhesion printing on a glass bed with PVP glue applied (chamber temp 90 degrees C).