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Thread: Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone
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01-10-2017, 11:38 AM #3871
- Join Date
- Jun 2016
- Location
- Oklahoma
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- 902
You basically go to a Bowden type setup to get it to work. Google it.
Go with JF's cooling block setup and get Micro-Swiss all metal hot ends. It's a bolt on.
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01-10-2017, 11:58 AM #3872
- Join Date
- Nov 2015
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- 43
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01-10-2017, 12:18 PM #3873
- Join Date
- Jun 2016
- Location
- Oklahoma
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- 902
Yes. I use JF's setup with Micro-Swiss all metal hot ends on one of my Flashforge Creator Pro's. Or go with his hot ends also I guess. I already had the hot ends when I got his cooling block and heatsink set up.
To go to E3D setup you will have a lot of work and have to print parts etc. I looked into it to see and said no way!
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01-11-2017, 11:09 AM #3874
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Posts
- 96
That sounds good. Is the 6x9" size slightly too large or slightly too small for the build plate? And how do you account for this? Just use clips that can adjust for the size difference? Also, why 3/16"? Is that supposed to be a compromise between 1/8" and 1/4"? Now I have to ask Kludge or someone else to make a custom 3/8" Z-axis spacer. I only have 1/8" and 1/4" size.
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01-11-2017, 11:14 AM #3875
It's so close it isn't to be worried about. Yes 3/16" is a nice compromise between 1/4 and 1/8. 1/4 is good but is overkill. I feel 1/8 is a little weak once you start wrestling with a stuck print. Glass is glass, it will break if stressed too much.
You should be able to use a 1/4" spacer for 3/16". Just unscrew the levelers a little more.
My platform kit comes with spacer for glass and no glass.
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01-11-2017, 11:16 AM #3876
- Join Date
- Nov 2015
- Posts
- 43
I use 1/8" borosilicate glass. The 1/8" in my opinion is better because it reaches temp faster. With a glass plate, you want to use the preheat function as much as possible and then check your bed temps with an infrared thermometer as the reported temp will be for the aluminum bed's temperature reading and won't accurately reflect what the surface of the plate is. I printed off a spacer that is 1/8" but slightly larger, it doesn't matter too much as you can adjust your bed height, just make sure is isn't smaller before you adjust or you will crash your print head into it. My spacer located on one of the screw tops behind the z-axis threaded rod.
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01-11-2017, 12:35 PM #3877
3/16" glass resists warping better also if using clips to hold it down. The time to temp differential isn't significant.
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01-11-2017, 01:23 PM #3878
- Join Date
- Apr 2015
- Location
- Northern Ohio
- Posts
- 198
The 1/8 thick glass will chip and crack easier. Not the end of the world but if you are counting on the bottom to be smooth and one chips or cracks.... well.... the 3/16 is more durable and the heat issue is not all that different.
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01-11-2017, 01:29 PM #3879
- Join Date
- Jan 2017
- Posts
- 5
Hello friends. Hoping you an help me. I haven't found any other person on the internet with my same problem but you all seem to be able to get your QIDI Tech 1s working just fine. I haven't even been able to do a successful test print.
The problem is drivers and software. I can't find ANYWHERE online to download a driver for the QIDI Tech 1. The softwares it came with - copies of MakerBot and ReplicatorG - do not install. Every time I run them, I get a "installation did not run" error. And that's it - no other information.
My computer still can't recognize the QIDI Tech 1 even after I installed MakerBot software from the website. What can I do?
Thanks,
G
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01-11-2017, 01:42 PM #3880
- Join Date
- Jun 2016
- Location
- Oklahoma
- Posts
- 902
You would need to get either the last version of ReplicatorG which is really outdated but the driver will work or go get Flashprint. Flashprint should be fine just select Flashforge Creator Pro as the printer. It will however not print to the printer via USB. Also do not let it update the firmware without checking with QIDI first.
What operating system?
You may need administrator privileges to install the software depending on the computer.
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10-28-2024, 09:08 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help