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Thread: Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone
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09-15-2016, 07:41 PM #3101
Here are the last two panels.
Screenshot (103).jpgScreenshot (102).jpgLast edited by Talon 3D; 09-15-2016 at 09:46 PM.
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09-15-2016, 07:58 PM #3102
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Screen shots would be much more helpful if I were able to read them clearly. I think it looks like you've got the temp set at 230? I missed the bed temp if it's in there somewhere. Don't have any experience with that mfg's filament, but PLA temps are more typically 200/60
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09-15-2016, 08:02 PM #3103Editor in Chief
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09-15-2016, 08:04 PM #3104
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09-15-2016, 08:04 PM #3105
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It also looks like you are using the right extruder which does not get very good cooling airflow from the blower. PLA needs good cooling to do its best, and I see that you do have it on. It just doesn't really get to the right nozzle very well. You might try shifting over to use the left extruder.
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09-15-2016, 08:12 PM #3106
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LOL - Dept of redundancy dept here J.
Talon, I gather you are using the forums embedded image attachment tools? I was not aware that was "working" again. As that functionality had been totally defunct for several months, I save my pix to a free outside image storage service like imjur or similar, then embed a link to that external image in the posting text.
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09-15-2016, 08:19 PM #3107
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09-15-2016, 08:26 PM #3108
I can switch to the left extruder. I only went as high as 230 as it said it could take it LOL
https://meltink3d.com/shop/pla-pha-f...apha-filament/
I have been looking at making a new fan shroud to cool. Thingiverse has a nice looking one. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1484546
I will switch sides and lower the temp and see what I get.
S3D does make it easier to choose and use either extruder than makerware did that is for sure.Editor in Chief
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09-15-2016, 08:43 PM #3109
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The PLA/PHA material appears to be similar to the Makergeeks Raptor series of PLA filament. I do print the Raptor stuff at 230. It prints kind of like a cross between PLA and ABS, has much better high temp characteristics than straight PLA, and needs to be "annealed" at 100C for 5-10 minutes after it is printed for max strength and temp stability.
The fan shroud you id'd comes in from the front side of the printer and will block your view of the nozzles. Here are some other choices and tradeoffs:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1542849 dual rear uses existing blower
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1695189 dual rear reqs 2 x blowers on back
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1716089 Single, uses existing blower, improved ductwork for left blower
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09-15-2016, 09:38 PM #3110Editor in Chief
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My 3D Norn Emissary print
09-13-2024, 02:28 AM in 3D Printing Gallery