Results 11 to 20 of 22
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12-29-2015, 12:50 PM #11
I have no idea what you're saying. Speak english.
You need to wake up to reality. The MB Rep1s and the FFCs had massive leveling issues due to their plastic arms and users ended up swapping them for 3rd party ones. This presented a whole new set of problems as the hole patterns on the MB1 (for which the arms were originally designed) did not necessarily match up with the hole patterns on the all the clones. Perhaps you should do your research. And stop asking for advice if you're not interested in any.
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12-29-2015, 02:18 PM #12
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Posts
- 43
Lmao oh gosh. Your probably some old man no wonder you can't figure out what I'm saying. And I'll take advice just not from you. I've done research and found nothing about the '' plastic arm problem '' your talking about. So please just do me a favor and don't reply to this anymore. K? Thanks
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12-31-2015, 10:29 AM #13The MB Rep1s and the FFCs had massive leveling issues due to their plastic arms and users ended up swapping them for 3rd party ones.
My ffcx has wooden frame, plastic supports for the heated bed and is all original. Only really gets calibrated when i change the print surface, has around 900 hours of pretty much faultless prints (I don't go in for long high resolution prints), doesn't have vibration issues and has never had levelling issues.
The original 3mm bed will warp - but I just dropped a level 3mm aluminium plate on that and never had any head drag or print level issues since.
The bed is a good way from the arms and even when I didn't know better and was using abs - the heat never effected the levelling.
I would even say that the 4 wheel levelling system is way better than the later 3 wheel system. So much quicker and easier to level with the wheel at each corner setup than the weird 2 at front 1 at back system.
I've got both so i do know :-)
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12-31-2015, 11:32 AM #14
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Posts
- 43
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12-31-2015, 01:01 PM #15
lol maybe reminded that there are a LOT of ffcx's out there still running on factory spec :-)
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01-03-2016, 02:55 PM #16
You may disagree but you are not quite right.
Have to back to the history: The original MB Rep 1 was a PLA only printer and as such was equipped with an acrylic platform on plastic arms. When Flashforge and the slew of other clones arrives on the scene they decided to use the same design but added a heated bed and and marketed them as ABS/PLA printers. This is where things started falling apart as plastic arms cannot a) be used successfully at over 105C as 105C is the glass point of ABS causing the plastic arm to deform and b) repeated heat cycling will also cause the arms to fail. The FFC's and early FFCX's had plastic arms and caused massive problems for users heating over 90C. This is the reason for the countless metal arms on offer.
While the wooden cases can produce great results these were chosen early on due to their low-cost. With the growth of the 3D printer market almost all modern machines boast a metal frame. A metal frame beats wooden panels any day in terms of rigidity, giving a better finish. All pro/industrial machines have metal frames for a reason. Again, only an issue if require higher quality surfaces i.e. less ringing.
3 point leveling is far better to 4 (or more) point leveling. Having 4 or more points to seat can cause twisting/rocking of whatever you're trying to level. Maybe 4 points works for you but it it certainly isn't superior from an engineering perspective.
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01-04-2016, 04:11 AM #17
Hi,
I really don't know your background, but to most "normal" engineers hearing you want to do "precision" printing at 0,1mm with a wooden frame is like telling me you want to go over a 100km/h in a wooden cart. Can do, but somehow I'm not tempted.
Cheer up and happy new year.
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01-04-2016, 09:47 AM #18
Another Negative about Wood , I just discovered,
is that the assembly Screws keep getting Loose.
Tighten them and a few months later they are All Loose Again !
(mainly dew to wood compressing and vibration, I guess)
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01-19-2016, 11:47 AM #19
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
- Posts
- 257
Hate to bump a thread, but just wondering how anyone who has this printer is getting along with it.
With the sagging Canadian dollar, this is starting to look very appealing, in the face of a few of it's short comings. Wondering if it would prove to be on par or slightly better than the MakerFarm i3v I have now....
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01-19-2016, 02:08 PM #20
- Join Date
- May 2015
- Posts
- 43
I do
I have it. It produces good prints with just a little tuning. I would highly recommend this. Best printer for the money
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