Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[Syd_Khaos]

Well 3 thick coats of Aquanet and still seeing raising issues. When I first got the glass this was not an issue. ABS bed temp at 110c and again at 115c both times I get raising/curling.

Have you tried lowering the bed temp?
What works for others may not work for you.

Personally I have to run both my nozzles and bed at slightly lower temps that what most run. I think this is due to there being rather high humidity where I'm at.
For ABS I typically start with a bed temp of 100-105, and drop it down to 80 by layer 5 or so. If your first layer sticks without issue then bed temp probably does not need to go up any higher.

Keep in mind to much hairspray can be as bad as to little. I repeat something rcleav said to me in this very forum when I first got my machine....spray the glass till it just starts to look like frosted glass (the type used for bathroom windows n such). This was very god advice as I have yet to have a single issue originating from to little/much hairspray.
Also make sure your using the right stuff...purple can, says all-weather on it.


So....lets talk about acetone now....
I have got ABS slurry down I think, but am curious now about acetone's effects on other materials.
I have never seen mention of PLA, PeTG, or Nylon slurry, so I assume that its break down of these materials is not stable enough for slurry. But has anyone tried smoothing or vapor bath techniques with acetone on other materials than ABS?

Just got a 3D scanner. Made by XYZ Printing it was only $180, with free shipping. It only has a 1.5mm resolution, so not the best scanner by a long shot. But it is handheld, super easy to set-up and use, and it exports files already in .stl format. If you can deal with the loss in resolution is a cheap easy way to get basic scans.

[kaznad]

I was reading about this vase after your note and saw people were able to speed print it properly. The QIDI is definitely capable of it but I usually print all my items in 0.12mm for a nice surface finish and for this vase I had to deviate. FWIW, the settings I used are below and they might help (printed in ABS).

Thanks a lot for the settings man. I will be sure to try them out soon. I am using PLA but I guess that should not make much of a difference.

[KludgeGuru]

This is one option for smoothing, haven't tried it yet but it looks interesting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0TGL6Cb2KY&sns=em

[DarkAlchemist]

This is one option for smoothing, haven't tried it yet but it looks interesting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0TGL6Cb2KY&sns=em

I have seen that technique used and I can tell you get it out in the open air cause the stink is horrible. As it cures it heats up so you get the stink of the epoxy AND the stink of the plastic being heated up. It does work and those people who can get two part epoxy at their poundland/pound world are lucky because our Dollar Tree never ever has epoxy. Super glue that doesn't work on my pla or abs but never epoxy.

[rcleav]

Well 3 thick coats of Aquanet and still seeing raising issues. When I first got the glass this was not an issue. ABS bed temp at 110c and again at 115c both times I get raising/curling.

Have you checked your build plate level?
What size is the objects surface?

[cncartist]

Thanks a lot for the settings man. I will be sure to try them out soon. I am using PLA but I guess that should not make much of a difference.

You're welcome and you can see I didn't choose "vase mode" as this design technically doesn't qualify as a vase shape even though the inside functions as one. My layer height was large at 0.3mm and this print finished in less than 3 hours which was nice.

[DarkAlchemist]

Serious question and that is how hard is this printer to retrofit the Z 8mm smooth rods to 10mm smooth rods?

[jfkansas]

Serious question and that is how hard is this printer to retrofit the Z 8mm smooth rods to 10mm smooth rods?

Well if you have the parts....it isnt' really that bad. You need to remove the bottom, all 4 sides and the back mounting plate, that's about 30 screws. Then remove the 4 screws holding the Z stepper in, this will drop it out of the bottom. After that you have to release the Z stage that is 12 screws. Then you have to release the top of the machine by removing 12 screws, do the back two corners and half the front 2 corners. After all that you should be able to lift up the top of the machine enough so the Z stage will come out. The thing is, all the screws you remove you should remove anyway to drop a little thread lock on them and re-tighten because if you don't over time they will loosen up.

[DarkAlchemist]

Well if you have the parts....it isnt' really that bad. You need to remove the bottom, all 4 sides and the back mounting plate, that's about 30 screws. Then remove the 4 screws holding the Z stepper in, this will drop it out of the bottom. After that you have to release the Z stage that is 12 screws. Then you have to release the top of the machine by removing 12 screws, do the back two corners and half the front 2 corners. After all that you should be able to lift up the top of the machine enough so the Z stage will come out. The thing is, all the screws you remove you should remove anyway to drop a little thread lock on them and re-tighten because if you don't over time they will loosen up.

Thread locker I have but OMG, is there a write up, or a video, for all of that? How do I get 10mm to fit considering it is all molded for 8mm (i.e. LM8UU vs LM10UU bearings and their holders, etc...)?

[TK4426]

Have you checked your build plate level?
What size is the objects surface?

Triple checked the build plate, the objects are 2.5 x 2.5 inch squares.

Switched over to some Hatchbox PLA, seems to stick better but seeing some warping on the corner, running it at 210c with a 50c buildplate, full fan. Going to try bumping the plate up to 60c on the next run to see if it helps.


Side note: after tightening the Y axis motor, and all grub screws I have not seen anymore shifting in the layers!