Itty Bitty Double Extruder

[rhonal89]

Do you think this will work for rambo board for makerfarm 12 i3v. Using your setup.

[clough42]

Hmm, that RRD fan extender seems to be plugged into the same pins I use to run my RAMPS fan. How many pins I'm currently using are going to be eaten up by this thing?

If you're talking about the 12v output on the RAMPS board, then yes. The fan extender uses these pins for power. I just attach my RAMPS fan to the 12V input. I just strip the wires and put them in with the power supply wires and screw down the terminals.

The RRD fan extender doesn't seem like a very elegant design. A 12V passthru and pins on top for a couple of servos would have made it a lot friendlier.

[clough42]

Do you think this will work for rambo board for makerfarm 12 i3v. Using your setup.

It should work fine, though the Configuration.h might be a little different.

RAMBO has extra MOSFET PWM circuits, so you don't need a fan extender, but I don't think it has servo connectors, so you have to make a cable or at least split the pins of the servo connector up and hook them to different pins on the board. I don't have one, so I haven't attempted it.

[clough42]

I just created a fork and branch of Marlin with my firmware changes: https://github.com/clough42/Marlin/t...v_double_bitty

This is a fork of Beckdac's fork of Marlin, which contains Roxy's auto-bed-leveling code.

It's a work in progress, so you should expect changes.

I only modified two files:

• Configuration.h: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/cl...onfiguration.h
• Configuration_adv.h: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/cl...guration_adv.h

You will likely need to tweak the servo endpoints and the Z probe offset.

Right now, I'm doing the extruder offsets in Slic3r, so it isn't set up in Marlin. RobH2 has played more with the Marlin side and may have some input here.

[clough42]

Here's my current custom Start G-Code:

; 8" i3v Itty Bitty Double Extruder
M42 P5 S255 ; light on
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed to heat up
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0 ; start heating T0
M104 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1 ; start heating T1
G1 Z5 F50 ; lift nozzle
G28 ; home X and Y axes
G29 ; auto bed level
G1 X0 F8000 ; move to side
G1 Y210 F8000 ; move off front
G1 Z0 ; Level for wipe
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0] T0 ; wait for heat
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_1] T1 ; wait for heat
G90 ; absolute
T0 ; extruder 0
G92 E0
G1 E12 F50 ; extrude
G1 Y0 F8000 ; wipe
T1 ; extruder 1
G92 E0 ; reset extrude
G1 E12 F50 ; extrude
G1 E9 F50; retract
G1 X15 F8000 ; wipe

And my end G-Code:

M104 S0 T0 ; heat off T0
M104 S0 T1 ; heat off T1
G28 X0 ; home X axis
G28 Y0 ; home Y axis
M84 ; disable motors
M42 P5 S0 ; light off
M190 S0 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached

I have LED illumination attached to the second port of my RRD fan extender.

[clough42]

I added reference links to the first page of this thread, and I'll continue to maintain summary info there.

[clough42]

you guys are ok with soldering i can remake the board to supply both 2 servos and 2 fans
i will take care of the SMD soldering and include wire-wrap and reg headers..
just an offer
i must tell you that i order PCB's from OSHpark so they are a deep purple PCB..
they make amazing PCB's for low cost compared to all the others.

i don't know what filament you guys use but i been using
toybuilders prototype supply stuff and been very happy. print so clean (get it on amazon)
i store my filament under 15-20in of vacuum
for moisture free filament. and no i have never had a problem with a new roll
but old rolls after sitting awhile pop a lot tell i put them under a vacuum overnight

so if anyone wants a dual fan + dual servo board with beefier mosfet drivers for fans and servo power switching (no power no twitch it bugs me) reply with a yes

Agreed OSH Park is fully awesome.

Not sure what the issue is with the servo twitching. I set up the servo deactivation delay, so it shuts down and doesn't twitch.

You seem to be itching for a project, though. As long as you're looking at power, I think the community could use a power distribution board. I want a board with an ATX power supply connector and outputs for the RAMPS power inputs. I'd like a three pin jumper to the power header to provide 5v to the servos, 5vsb to vcc (no D1) and PS enable to allow switching power on and off with gcode. I want a few 12V pins for fans and lights and a 5vsb header (maybe USB?) to power a raspberry pi. Put in as many PWM mosfets as you want. Could even go crazy and add a heat bed relay.

[printbus]

You seem to be itching for a project, though. As long as you're looking at power, I think the community could use a power distribution board. I want a board with an ATX power supply connector and outputs for the RAMPS power inputs. I'd like a three pin jumper to the power header to provide 5v to the servos, 5vsb to vcc (no D1) and PS enable to allow switching power on and off with gcode. I want a few 12V pins for fans and lights and a 5vsb header (maybe USB?) to power a raspberry pi. Put in as many PWM mosfets as you want. Could even go crazy and add a heat bed relay.

Consideration should be given to providing a dedicated 5v regulator on this so the printer isn't dependent on USB power being there. The regulator on the MEGA2560 can handle itself and the smart panel, but likely not a servo, a Pi, or next month's great idea if it needs 5V.

[TechMasterJoe]

Agreed OSH Park is fully awesome.

Not sure what the issue is with the servo twitching. I set up the servo deactivation delay, so it shuts down and doesn't twitch.

You seem to be itching for a project, though. As long as you're looking at power, I think the community could use a power distribution board. I want a board with an ATX power supply connector and outputs for the RAMPS power inputs. I'd like a three pin jumper to the power header to provide 5v to the servos, 5vsb to vcc (no D1) and PS enable to allow switching power on and off with gcode. I want a few 12V pins for fans and lights and a 5vsb header (maybe USB?) to power a raspberry pi. Put in as many PWM mosfets as you want. Could even go crazy and add a heat bed relay.

Project Started
this HexFet will take care of bed problems (i have a full reel qty 500)
http://www.newark.com/international-...-7p/dp/28W1167
using a real Mosfet driver (high current opamp is all they are) so it's really doing it's job
maybe a fan driver ??

so the mega can sip power off the 5Vsb line witch most power supply's only have about an Amp on (this is Standby power)
we only want the display and the Mega on the 5Vsb line so all other 5V items need to be isolated and put on a main 5v rail
some newer PSU's have more power on 5Vsb for charging usb things when the pc is off but this is new to this years rev of the ATX IEEE standards

whats in eagle now
ATX24 pin PLUS 8Pin CPU (12V)
4 boosted heater driver circuits each with an aprox 40amps switching capacity (RDS on + board = 0.0017ohm)Mosfet rated for 260amps ! (i have tested on a 1in by 3in board solo to 100amps static load board settled at 40c, 46c Mosfet)
2 extra switching circuits each safe to apx 10amps use for just about anything
PS_ON check (Plan this with my setup from day one)
5Vsb Check
4USB ports 2 tied to 5Vsb 2 tied to 5v rail (Pi still has power when printer is asleep)
keep in mind ratings mean nothing if using a small PSU


so a few questions before i send this out
do you want more high output Fan, lights, servo,
what type of connections do you like keep in mind the amperage...



note:
all Mosfets used are rated to switch at up to 1Mhz (well over the switching feq of any atmega without bit banging)

Consideration should be given to providing a dedicated 5v regulator on this so the printer isn't dependent on USB power being there. The regulator on the MEGA2560 can handle itself and the smart panel, but likely not a servo, a Pi, or next month's great idea if it needs 5V.

i think the first part answerer you. most PC ATX PSU's have 10+ amps at 5V

[printbus]

The power board discussion likely warrants it's own thread. If this is for the community, consider posting a schematic and proposed layout for review.

i think the first part answerer you. most PC ATX PSU's have 10+ amps at 5V

Of course, not everyone will want to use an ATX supply.