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Thread: Printrbot Metal Plus : prints
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07-09-2015, 07:33 AM #1
As to that, it is a very basic but efficient technique : I use the "change tool scripts" to turn down the unused hot end while powering the new one.
No heat = no oozing.
No heat = smaller hot end (no thermal expansion) => no idle head colliding with the build.
Admittedly it is an efficient way to do things only in when the 2 colors are completely on different planes. It still works otherwise but it increases print time like hell.
So when I transition from white (hot end 0) :
M104 S0 T0
M109 S200 T1
And then the reverse
M104 S0 T1
M109 S200 T0
I usually add a little more text to move the head away from the build first and then bring it back (I think it uses G91/G92 and move commands).
Unfortunately correct, but this is entirely on my design. I wanted to overdo it and added a "radius chamfer" at the bottom that had a horizontal tangent... therefore it didn't work well since the first layer had nothing to support it. Print didn't fail though so I'll keep it once I fill the hole with compound.
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07-09-2015, 10:31 AM #2
I have read about this technique, how much longer are we talking?
I want to do some dual extrusion but I will have two colours on the same layer so I think this would make the print incredibly long. Not to mention the PITA of printing hot ABS into sections of already cooled ABS... warp city...
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07-09-2015, 10:33 AM #3
Oh yeah... do you add all that code manually or does the software do it automatically?
Please explain to me how to...
05-17-2024, 12:15 PM in 3D Printer Parts, Filament & Materials