Large Delta printer build - advice and suggestions welcome

[Reefsider416]

how can you have a 500mm bed with a 381mm (15inch) centre ?

Other than that, sounds good.
But the printer itself isn't that large - so not sure why you want nema 23 motors.

The best thing to look at - as far as measurements go - for a delta is the smoothie ware, guide and wiki. Gives you all the rod measurements and angles, etc.
Reall helpful.
I presume the skyr 1.3 runs smoothieware ?

My design is a little hard to describe; The 15" rim will be the center hub but the towers/uprights will be bolted to the outside of the rim so they will extend beyond that by about 4-5" for each tower/upright making the usable bed area about 500-600mm I think. I will then connect the backs of the pillars with 2040 extrusions or maybe bigger depending on how much room i need under the bed. Hopefully I will be able to finish the CAD drawings soon and that will tell me exactly what the area I have to work with is. Once I finish the part designs I will post them on here. I don't have the actual rim yet as I haven't been able to meet up with my friend that grabbed it for me. I also haven't figured out what steppers and linear rails to use so I haven't found the CAD files for those yet either.

I chose the nema 23 because after looking it seemed to be the common size for that size printer but i would rather do nema 17 if they will work just as well. I am on a budget, most of the parts have been donated by friends and keeping the cost down is important.
On that same point, if i can use nema 17 motors does that mean 12mm linear rails are sufficient? That could reduce costs also.

The SKR v1.3 can use a variety of different software/firmware including smoothieware. It can also run 12V or 24V so I intend to run 24V and hopefully a 120V silicone heater. They also sell 12/24V versions but if it's not too difficult 120V would heat faster. To use a 120V heater, how do i set up the temperature controls? Is there another board I will need to convert the 12/24v signal to 120V? I was thinking a simple starter solenoid/relay from a car or boat would do the job maybe, if the temperature sensor would still be read by the motherboard but it probably has to turn off and on faster than that.

I also picked up some TMC2209 V2 stepper drivers, an E3D Titan extruder and bigtreetech TFT35 V2 screen.

I see on the smoothieware wiki they have calculations for the arms but its more for the programming. could you possibly send a link to the page you are talking about? Is there a rule of thumb for the effector? should it be as small as possible or a min/max size or anything?


Thanks for the input, its really appreciated