Compatible filaments?

[NewMatter]

We have not tested many of the available filament on the market since we've been busy optimizing our own brand of filament. The max recommended temperature that the MOD-t hot end should run at is 220C. The hot end nozzle is made of wear resistant stainless steel so it should resist wear much better than brass nozzles but we can't predict how they will behave with non-New Matter filament. We can only guarantee the best prints with New Matter filament.

[hsus]

We have not tested many of the available filament on the market since we've been busy optimizing our own brand of filament. The max recommended temperature that the MOD-t hot end should run at is 220C. The hot end nozzle is made of wear resistant stainless steel so it should resist wear much better than brass nozzles but we can't predict how they will behave with non-New Matter filament. We can only guarantee the best prints with New Matter filament.

Thanks for jumping in, I totally get your priorities! Is your filament "pure" PLA? Please correct me if I'm wrong but I've read somewhere that higher end "PLA" filament isn't just PLA but often mixed with something else (like the aforementioned colorfabb PLA with PHA). I'm specifically interested in this as I'm considering different post-print procedures

[NewMatter]

Thanks for jumping in, I totally get your priorities! Is your filament "pure" PLA? Please correct me if I'm wrong but I've read somewhere that higher end "PLA" filament isn't just PLA but often mixed with something else (like the aforementioned colorfabb PLA with PHA). I'm specifically interested in this as I'm considering different post-print procedures

Our filament would be considered pure PLA in that there is not any other plastics mixed in and for any post processing it could be considered pure PLA.

However there are additives that are used to get the different colors and to make it easier to manufacture as filament. The Midnight Black and the Polar White in particular have fairly high ‘filler’ to get the more opaque color. The Matural color has the least additives.

We can't wait to see how you post process yours!

[Doctor Heckle]

Our filament would be considered pure PLA in that there is not any other plastics mixed in and for any post processing it could be considered pure PLA.

However there are additives that are used to get the different colors and to make it easier to manufacture as filament. The Midnight Black and the Polar White in particular have fairly high ‘filler’ to get the more opaque color. The Matural color has the least additives.

We can't wait to see how you post process yours!

You know, looking back, I think I've narrowed down my print quality issues with one post.

Using the initial 0.5kg of pink filament the printer came with, the only issue I had with the printer were wifi connectivity related. I changed filament, and now I'm getting z banding issues and adhesion issues on top of the wifi connectivity issues. Guess which colors I've been trying!

[Doctor Heckle]

Thanks for jumping in, I totally get your priorities! Is your filament "pure" PLA? Please correct me if I'm wrong but I've read somewhere that higher end "PLA" filament isn't just PLA but often mixed with something else (like the aforementioned colorfabb PLA with PHA). I'm specifically interested in this as I'm considering different post-print procedures

As someone who just learned acetone baths don't work with PLA, I too am looking at some post-print treatments to get things a bit smoother.

[hsus]

As someone who just learned acetone baths don't work with PLA, I too am looking at some post-print treatments to get things a bit smoother.

It does however work with colorfabb's PLA with PHA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HEnz8CWxyjc