Bed Temp not accurate

[tsteever]

I used 3D Benchy to calibrate my bed temps for PLA. Basically you look at the lower part of the bow and it should a nice clean slope. If the bed temps are too high then it will warp or bow a little there. I came up with for first layer/rest of 65/60 for most PLA and 70/65 for eSun PLA+ although your's may be higher. I have a Pegasus 10 full metal with bed extenders which I modified to about 11 mm gap below the PCB and have 10 mm of cork (2 5mm pieces) trimmed so it lies flat, topped with a 1 mm layer of ceramic 'felt' insulation and the PCB heater sits on that and the glass and clips pushes it down firmly (But not too firmly) I also ditched the mechanical relay for an SSR with PID control which all together seemed to give me more consistent temperatures especially around the edges. I also have auto bed leveling with an 8mm inductive probe which works with just the PCB traces and hardware store glass but would be pushing it for 3 mm boro glass. Although those probes don't sense copper very well the PCB heater itself is a big inductor (technically a flat wirewound resistor with inherent inductance like all wirewound resistors) so I get about a 5mm sensing range rather than the 8 mm advertised. It works every time flawlessly and I haven't had to do any tweaking since I got it set up properly back in August.

Can you describe your probe setup a bit more in-depth? It may be best if it were it's own thread. A probe intrigues me but I thought you had to have a metal bed to make them work. My servo mounted probe is getting inconsistent.

[uncle_bob]

Can you describe your probe setup a bit more in-depth? It may be best if it were it's own thread. A probe intrigues me but I thought you had to have a metal bed to make them work. My servo mounted probe is getting inconsistent.

Hi

Servo mounted probes tend to be temperature sensitive. You need to be careful about their position relative to a heated bed before the probe process starts. They also can have issues with mechanical rigidity if you are not careful about how you design and build your setup.

The BLTouch probe is a mechanical probe that does not have any strange requirements in terms of bed surface.

Bob

[longjohn119]

Can you describe your probe setup a bit more in-depth? It may be best if it were it's own thread. A probe intrigues me but I thought you had to have a metal bed to make them work. My servo mounted probe is getting inconsistent.

I'm going to better document my build on my blog but probably not until after the first of the year. Unfortunately the numbers/code I used in the Marlin Config file isn't going to be applicable to other Pegasus 10 users since I flipped the gantry on mine so everything is on the left side and 0,0 is in the front left corner like my other printers .....

Trust me it will be worth the wait, it's built on a Harbor Freight work table with printed feet that can also accept locking wheels and includes a Raspberry Pi 3 with a 5" touchscreen that can be used as an octo-print rig or can be used like a computer to download and slice files and control the printer with Pronterface. It's a completely self contained stand alone unit that all you need is an outlet to plug it into and an available WiFi connection. I wanted something I could easily move from my workshop into my computer/design room. The entire reason I bought and designed this is because I blew my back out in late June and couldn't get out in my boat. So I built a new printer instead ...... I didn't even plan to start this until next year

Depressed? Life has got you Bummed Out? Build a new printer ......