Results 11 to 20 of 26
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08-28-2016, 09:44 AM #11
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
- Location
- Sydney Australia
- Posts
- 10
Found this interesting comment. (i guess I wasn't wrong about that tripod style design).
Quote: "flexible shaft? why? Printer can handle Dremel without problems. Precision is suck, due to bad Geeetech 3D printer design."
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1266600/#comments
I have a long flexible shaft too. Perhaps it could be possible with the ally getech? Though I'm still worried that the "precision is suck".
Thoughts?
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08-28-2016, 01:42 PM #12
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08-28-2016, 05:56 PM #13
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
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- 9
How big of a printer do you need? What kind of materials will you be working with?
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08-28-2016, 08:57 PM #14
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
- Location
- Sydney Australia
- Posts
- 10
sebastian, dont act like you dont have one
this prototype i am needing is only 50 x 50 x 50. Though who knows what I'll be printing in the future. The prototype will just be made from ABS plastic, though for when I print other parts which need strength, this carbon fibre filament sounds good.
The alloy max size of 200 x 200 x 180 sounds useful. Since this will open many more avenues, I could be printing PCBs, stuff for RC hobby... so many possibilities. I'd hate to find that I need 50mm more.
Anything else I should consider before buying this?
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08-28-2016, 09:18 PM #15
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
- Location
- new zealand
- Posts
- 10
If you look at this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/free...b-4eb0efa5a4a3
It has proper lead screws,rather than the threaded rod on the ebay one.It has an acrylic frame,and though some people don,t like them,mine has been perfectly fine for 2 years.
Close to $500au seems rather a lot for that ebay job.It,s still coming from China,so if you cut out the middleman,you,ll save a coupla hundred bucks.The alloy frame is perhaps an advantage,but the z-axis allthread rods aren't.
As for the electronics,almost ALL of that type of stuff is now made in China,Korea,or Malaysia.Their quality levels have risen rapidly,adding reliability,and I predict the prices will catch up sooner or later.
I would shy away from anything with a Melzi control board,mine burned out the bed heater after about a months use.But that is just my personal opinion,for what it's worth.
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08-28-2016, 10:31 PM #16
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- Aug 2016
- Posts
- 9
A personal tip, try to buy from Amazon, something like the WanHao? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Sel...s_6066127011_3
Their buyer protection programs are off the charts. Selling there is a pain in the arse but you are protected 100%
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08-28-2016, 10:53 PM #17
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- Aug 2016
- Location
- Sydney Australia
- Posts
- 10
perhaps the threaded rod wont be a deal breaker. Looks like I can upgrade that part without too much hassle. square acme threads look pretty easy to get.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/8mm-T8-Tr...RHJRXEacuJH3fQ
The 1mm pitch, 1mm lead with support bearings on each end looks ideal
I dunno about thinner steel frames (that front plate looks like its only 0.9 or 1.2mm) ... 6mm ally still looks quite sturdy.
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08-28-2016, 10:55 PM #18
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
- Location
- Sydney Australia
- Posts
- 10
also, just wondering... for cnc side of things, do people replace those belts with acme threads too? those belts look quite stretchy
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08-29-2016, 01:46 AM #19
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08-29-2016, 02:05 AM #20
- Join Date
- Aug 2016
- Location
- Sydney Australia
- Posts
- 10
So just a hood? I dont think that will be difficult. I have many clear 50L tubs that could do the job. Though as a more permanent solution would be nice to keep it protected from dust and cats. I'm not so worried about swarf. Or is it more an issue of heating wattage? I thought the part needs to cool do avoid sagging and mushing detail.
https://youtu.be/7LVu3Ir10UQ?t=6m56s
Design not printing solid
09-17-2024, 06:12 AM in 3D Modeling, Design, Scanners