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Thread: Hot end Prusia i3
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03-17-2014, 06:34 AM #1
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Hot end Prusia i3
Hello!
I'm looking for Hot end for Prusa i3
A friend told me this http://www.makergear.com/products/extruders is not well cooled. Is right?
I have a questions:
What is the difference with : http://3d-industries.myshopify.com/c...ucts/aluhotend and http://e3d-online.com/E3D-HotEnds/E3...l-Metal-HotEnd ?
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-HotEnds/E3...l-Metal-HotEnd is better than https://www.hotends.com/index.php?ro...&product_id=88
What is the best?
Thanks ,Last edited by Creted3d; 03-17-2014 at 06:42 AM.
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03-19-2014, 03:40 AM #2
Hi,
I started with the J-Head - and had bad experience. It was leaking plastik between the peek part and the nozzle. I tried to fix it and killed the thread. Changing the nozzle is a pain.
The I bought the E3D-Hotend with a 0,25, 0,4 and 0,6mm Nozzle, put in the Extruder and: I just forgot it! It´s printing without any problems since 3kg of PLA and 1kg of ABS. Even idling when it is heated up doesn´t lead to jamming. Sorry I can not help you with the comparison, one thing I can say: you will be satisfied with an E3D!
Kind regards
Manu
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03-19-2014, 06:26 AM #3
Hey.
I have a Jhead and got no problem at all, Probably now after 5 kilos of PLA and 1 kilo abs, never had a jam or whatever,
I am also looking for a new hotend, to get higher temps and such,
Not sure wich one atm, I think Aluhotend will be a decent hotend for the money tho, But i doubt it will be alot better then the Jhead,
E3D is pretty decent.
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03-19-2014, 07:17 AM #4
Many people don´t have any problems with the Jhead, however, it depends on the quality as it is an open source Hotend. I am pretty sure, mine came from china and the way it was drilled and machined was really bad. I just had bad luck with my supplier...
Manu
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03-19-2014, 10:22 AM #5
I too have a JHead that I got with my printer from Makerfarm. I've never had one jam or any trouble at all. I purchased a Magma head from Makerfarm at the same time and it jammed all the time so I took it off and I've never used it again. I am however interested in doing a dual-head retrofit and am interested in other heads and am glad to see the info above. But now I have to wait because Markerfarm is on the cusp of releasing a "rail" upgrade for the i3. If I buy heads now then they may not work too well in a month or so.
I know nothing about the heads but I do like seeing the built in heat sink and fan of the E3D-v5 HotEnd.
I'd still like to see discussion here about the merits of different heads though.Last edited by RobH2; 03-19-2014 at 10:25 AM.
Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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03-20-2014, 08:00 AM #6
Hi,
in the new Reprap Magazine Issue 3 there is a comparison of some Hotends - including the E3D/Jhead:
http://http://reprapmagazine.com/issues/3/
Maybe you can find any helpful information!
Manu
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03-20-2014, 10:27 AM #7
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- Mar 2014
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I've used both, but the E3D is just wonderful except in one aspect, the stock heating block and nozzle are too big and too close to the printing zone, so I had no luck printing parts with overhangs or pointy sides (like the teeth of a gear), so I took the hot end of the JHead and installed it on the E3D stainless steel barrel and heatsink.
Together they are amazing, the JHead nozzle is taller and the heating block smaller so there's much less heat being transferred to the part being printed, so no more corners curling up or thin parts being deformed. The filament barrel with the very thin neck and the heatsink work fantastic, specially since I made one other little modification, I drilled a slanted hole on the first heatsink fan, so that air from the cooling fan is directed down and around the barrel neck; the heatsink fins are very wide so I suspect a lot of heat is trapped between the bottom one and the top of the heating block, this small vent blows the hot air away from that area and I believe must help a lot to reduce the temperature gradient from the melt zone up.
Incidentally, right this instant I'm testing one last tweak in my extruder, I use a direct drive extruder and I was having some problems with the knurled gear, everynow and then it skipped when "pushing the envelope", I tried a MK8 drive gear (1.75mm PLA by the way) and it was even worse. So I just took a 5mm shaft coupler from my parts box, mounted it in my drill and grinded a groove around it, then I mounted the coupler in a 5mm shaft mounted on ball bearings and used the drill with a M3 tap to cut threads on that groove, because the tap rotates the coupler as it cuts it the threads are in fact parallel. This new drive gear works amazingly well now, absolutely perfect grip.
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03-21-2014, 05:55 AM #8
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03-22-2014, 04:27 AM #9
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Hi , thanks for all reply ,
But I still don't know what to choose....
The E3D , is not better because you can change the nozzle?
What is the best for printing quality ?
Thanks ,
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03-22-2014, 05:27 PM #10
I actually just ordered a E3D hot end because the j-head supplied with my MakerFarm i3 keeps jamming due to the PTFE tubing/lining warping/burning/deforming where nozzle connects to the PEEK body. It's quite annoying and I don't know if it's a design flaw or bad PTFE or whatever but having to change it out once a month due to heavy printing gets old very fast lol. So I went with the E3D with a 0.25mm nozzle and I'm quite excited for it to arrive sometime next week!
New to 3d printing looking for...
05-20-2024, 12:56 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help