Hi

My 12" has been printing for a couple of weeks now. It produces some really great prints. The normal "dial in the settings" stuff was every bit as frustrating as it is on any printer I've ever set up. You *always* go into it saying "it' will just work". That has never been the case on any printer I have had. I don't know if experience counts in this case or not. The Pegasus did set up a lot quicker than previous printers have. It could be luck as well.

The loop I'm talking about is this one:

1) Is the bed still level or is there a screw not tight enough?
2) Is a screw to tight?
3) Is the manual bed leveling delivering consistent results? Is that my fault or the printer's?
4) Is the glass positioned properly or is it up on a washer? (yes that happened)
5) Is the Z offset to much or to little? Bump it another 0.05 mm and try again.
6) Is there to much (or to little) hair spray on the glass?
7) Are each of the axis's square to each other? Get the 12" calipers out and check the measurements again.
8) Are you sure? Get the 98-6 level out again and check? Is the table flat .. oopss ... ? Is the table level ...oopss ?
9) Do the extrusion settings in *this* slicer version work correctly? Fiddle them and try again.
10) Is there play in any axis? Are the belts tight?
11) Is the Nomex pushing on the heated bed? Pull out a sheet ...
12) Is anything binding / dragging?
13) Print another test object and check it.
14) Go back and loop again.

Yes, it's a fine and wonderful day's worth of fiddling. It's also why I didn't pay 3 to 5X the price and *still* have to do almost all of the same stuff. All of the settings in terms of temperatures and speeds are still "stock". I'm using eSun filament so that's not a big surprise.

The kit I got does not have a relay on the bed heater PC board. The relay comes as a little board that attaches to the frame. That eliminates a lot of weird issues with the relay. It also made it easier to simply toss. I went with a dirt cheap 100A SSR in it's place....

Bob