Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[DarkAlchemist]

WOW, a dimensional change? Good luck as I have never seen that before.

Upload your .gcode file please. I would ask for the .x3g but no damn viewer do I know to look at it.

[DaveB]

WOW, a dimensional change? Good luck as I have never seen that before.

Upload your .gcode file please. I would ask for the .x3g but no damn viewer do I know to look at it.

Yes, I looked and could not locate an .x3g file viewer either.

[DarkAlchemist]

Yes, I looked and could not locate an .x3g file viewer either.

Another reason I despise anything to do with .x3g.

[wirlybird]

Wirlybird been berry berry good to MG. Enjoy!

If you don't have a dry box ready for these, you may want to visit your local food store and pick up some 2.5Gal zip lock bags. Hefty makes some @ 12/box. A spool of filament will fit in nicely along with a bag or so of desiccant.

Here are some spacers to extend the Qidi's metal spindle length. Sometimes they are handy. Right now I've got two 5's and a 2.5 on each shaft. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1530944

And if you've not run across them already, here is a customizable hub size adapter. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:735213 It works well to fill out that 17mm deep 85mm hole on the one side of the MG spools that is inevitably facing outward so it fits the 51mm Qidi shaft. This arrangement will allow the spool to fit on either way with no change but plugging in the adapter.

I don't have easy access to the rear of my Qidi, so I've found it easier to leave the metal spindle shaft (including 3 spacers) attached to the printer and just remove the short conic thingy on the end to mount a new spool.

I'm sure there are a million or so different ways to solve this, and I've probably totally missed the obvious solutions. Love to hear from folks with a perfect solution.

Do you know which file you used to print adapter for the MG rolls? Looks like a bunch of files and not sure yet which one is the correct one!

[wirlybird]

What material would be good to use for some kitchen/bathroom items? Like a soap dish or grating to set items on in the sink.

These will not be directly contacting food but will need to be cleaned and maybe go in the dishwasher.

[DarkAlchemist]

What material would be good to use for some kitchen/bathroom items? Like a soap dish or grating to set items on in the sink.

These will not be directly contacting food but will need to be cleaned and maybe go in the dishwasher.

Dishwasher can get pretty hot and hot enough to melt. I personally am a fan of PETG if it is anywhere near food (so I have read from even the FDA) OR use ABS and melt the ridges or use a sealant that is food safe.

[Syd_Khaos]

What material would be good to use for some kitchen/bathroom items? Like a soap dish or grating to set items on in the sink.

These will not be directly contacting food but will need to be cleaned and maybe go in the dishwasher.

MG sells dishwasher safe FDA approved PLA.
It is kinda a pain in the rear to print with...its VERY soft and likes to clog up feed gears....but good stuff.
http://www.makergeeks.com/disafdaaphip.html

Also, using natural ABS and then soaking it like described in prior post would work, though probably not dishwasher safe.

[DarkAlchemist]

MG sells dishwasher safe FDA approved PLA.
It is kinda a pain in the rear to print with...its VERY soft and likes to clog up feed gears....but good stuff.
http://www.makergeeks.com/disafdaaphip.html

Also, using natural ABS and then soaking it like described in prior post would work, though probably not dishwasher safe.

I normally tell people to use the food safe varnish they use to make wooden utensils with. It does seem to work but dishwasher safe PLA almost sounds like an oxymoron, lol.

[cncartist]

Water getting into the piece is not what makes it unsafe for fish, but rather that ABS has some mild toxins in it, even the natural stuff.
This is why ya soak it for a week. And toxins in the plastic will naturally seep out during that time.

As for getting something watertight, I have found that going 8-10 on the shell ( being top, bottom, and outer layers) and layer height of at the most .12mm (.1 is better) most prints will hold liquids. Not sure if I'd use acetone on anything for food or pets, but with a little care (and alot of practice) you can get the same results with a heatgun.

edit: I feel it needs said...I have NOT tested the soaking of ABS...this is just what several hours of online research have led to me think is accurate info. I did get to talk to the maker i refered to in Oregon for a good 20min via Skype.

Thanks for the information. Yes, it is being printed in the Natural Bone ABS. I was going to paint it with Acrylic paint and then clear coat with Krylon Fusion per this thread (http://diyfishkeepers.com/forum/show...afe-clear-coat). There isn't a lot of fish in the tank and they're not expensive fish but it would be a shame to lose them due to toxicity. I'm definitely not rushing the project as I didn't have the 2 bridge ends come out perfect and with a little touch up they should be ready for sanding.

I'll have to try out the heatgun method with some parts as I tried XTC Smooth On Clear Coat but I don't think it's aquarium safe. Below is a stormtrooper head done with XTC:

[DaveB]

I've been busy getting my dry box installed. Here is the new setup:

Where's Waldo?




Bingo... I had to move some hanging files and build in a shelf. There is room for two boxes, max of 6 rolls.




And the manifold for two boxes (only one box hooked up). I'm not thrilled with how this attaches to the QiDi. Will probably redo it.