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Thread: Installing the glass bed
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06-17-2016, 07:33 PM #11
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Posts
- 256
I use the same, only I just take the glass out and spray it directly on the glass.
hairspray holds really well while the plate is still hot (I once pulled out chunks of glass trying to forcefully remove a part before it had cooled).
Once cool the part comes off easily, often removing itself.
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06-23-2016, 01:57 PM #12
- Join Date
- Nov 2015
- Posts
- 12
As I am looking to order some glass build plates, I had a few questions:
• Do you guys think that a 1/8" borosilicate glass will be thick enough?
• What do you use to block the Z sensor?
• Do you have to re-level every time you remove the glass from the .5mm thermal padding and install another?
Thanks!
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06-24-2016, 06:06 AM #13
as long as your total bed thickness is less than about 9mm - you don't need to do anything to the z-sensor. The adjustment springs and screws easily cover that thickness of plate.
Basically you have to add something really thick to actually need any kind of z-axist sensor adjustment.
My current bed consists of the heatbed, original 3mm aluminium plate, some double sided carpet tape, an extra (flat) 3mm aluminium plate with 1mm of printbite stuck on top of that.
Probably about 8mm in total.
I have no problem adjusting for bed calibration and I did recently print a viking axe head that was approx 1mm short of the printers stated maximum z height.
So, no you don't need a z-axis adjuster, and most likely, neither do most of the people who have fitted them :-)
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06-24-2016, 12:44 PM #14
New member with print issue
06-11-2024, 08:57 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help