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  1. #1761
    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post
    I don't think this is a wide spread thing, not with this particular machine at any rate.
    You are the very first person I have heard mention this about the Qidi machines, though I have heard of this being an issue with alot of clones.

    I print almost everything in ABS. I run my machine from about 8am to 2-3am every single day. I check all wires and connectors when I do the weekly maint breakdown on the machine. That plug still white as the day I got it.

    But still a good heads up, def something to be mindful of and keep an eye on.
    Glad to hear it. This burning down my house with the smoking then this was my tripping point. I looked on the internet and found a few links of some seriously burned up connectors (black) and one had this happen after a year and another had this happen at the Mightyboard but this was a different printer not a Qidi. I measured the ohms on this plate and I was wrong it is not 3.4 it is 2.5ohms (I forgot to zero out the meter) so 24v at 2.5ohms that connector is not made to handle that much current.

    I don't know what the connector on the Mightyboard will handle but if it is like my Ramps board 10A is hot but not melt down and burn down your house so that connector should be fine. I suggest looking at it as well every so often (it is orange and on the right hand side when the front door is towards you).

    What gets me is 20-25mins to heat up the bed tells me they are using about 7-10v PWM to it because they know a full 24v would melt it in a heartbeat. Lets say 8v @ 2.5ohm is only 3.2A but I do believe that white connector is rated around 2.5A-4A max so be very cautious.

  2. #1762
    Technician
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    55
    I've been printing a lot in ABS lately, but after my blue sticker developed a bubble, I've kept my plate temperature at 95°C and I've had no problems.

    I'm still using that sticker, by the way. I don't print anything so large it can't be shifted to one side, avoiding the bubble.

    I printed a patch for a 30-year-old Rubik's cube with a broken edge piece. Works great now.

    Also, I've fallen in love with using Adobe Illustrator for designing embossed detail on my models. Illustrator has far better 2D tools, especially for text, than 3D modeling software. I can save as EPS and load that into Lightwave with no problems. Well, Lightwave ignores the scale, but I can fix that pretty easily.

  3. #1763
    Engineer
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
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    523
    Quote Originally Posted by DarkAlchemist View Post
    What gets me is 20-25mins to heat up the bed tells me they are using about 7-10v PWM to it because they know a full 24v would melt it in a heartbeat. Lets say 8v @ 2.5ohm is only 3.2A but I do believe that white connector is rated around 2.5A-4A max so be very cautious.
    You have mentioned the 20-25 minute period several times and it seems odd to me. Perhaps I misunderstand what you are referring to? When I manually initiate a preheat operation from the QIDI front panel it heats up the nozzles and the bed simultaneously. From room ambient temperature it takes my QIDI about 3 minutes to reach 205/60 for PLA.

  4. #1764
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveB View Post
    You have mentioned the 20-25 minute period several times and it seems odd to me. Perhaps I misunderstand what you are referring to? When I manually initiate a preheat operation from the QIDI front panel it heats up the nozzles and the bed simultaneously. From room ambient temperature it takes my QIDI about 3 minutes to reach 205/60 for PLA.
    For this printer for a print it works on the bed first then the nozzle and it took about 4mins to 40c and another 15-17mins to 110c and those are at 27c ambient room temp. The nozzle takes a much shorter time but I can't remember how long that took.

  5. #1765
    Technologist cncartist's Avatar
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    Mar 2016
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    Add cncartist on Thingiverse
    The video of the full sticker replacement / glue cleaning came out to be ~16 minutes, it shows the whole process minus the heating to 92c.

    Last edited by cncartist; 06-05-2016 at 11:53 PM.

  6. #1766
    Good work.

  7. #1767
    Engineer-in-Training
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    360
    Started the (VERY) long process of designing and printing me and my wife's Halloween costumes.

    I gonna be IronMan in head-to-toe Mk42 armor. I plan on doing lots of LED lights in it and a total of 7 servos to control parts of the armor (1 to open the helmet, and 6 for the flight control surfaces on back, arms, and upper legs).

    My wife is going as Black Widow. She said since my costume is so involved and her is so simple (simple she says after spending just over $300 on a vinyl jumpsuit) she want the taser bit BlackWidow uses to be operational...not a prop. My wife is a bit of a nutter =)

    Gonna start printing the Arc Reactor today, won't start printing the armor till mid to end week or so...as I just ordered the red spools from MG this morning. I'll post pics as I get stuff done if yall are interested.

  8. #1768
    Super Moderator
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    Apr 2014
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    Quote Originally Posted by cncartist View Post
    The video of the full sticker replacement / glue cleaning came out to be ~16 minutes, it shows the whole process minus the heating to 92c.

    Wow, glad I have Glass. :-)

  9. #1769
    WOW, now I got five notifications back to back this morning.

  10. #1770
    Engineer
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Annapolis, MD
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    523
    You rock Syd! Can't wait to see pix.
    Re: Notifications - I got 10 this AM...
    Question: Does anyone else have airflow from the left 40mm extruder fan wafting around the extruded filament when loading the left extruder (or at other times)? It blows the just extruded filament to the side where of course it sticks to anything and I end up with a globball nozzlemess rather than a nicely descending string. I tried putting a small shim across the open channel between the blower duct and the extruder mounting plate. Seems to have stopped.

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