Quote Originally Posted by KludgeGuru View Post
I haven't timed the nozzle heating but in my opinion it heats up fast enough. The bed takes much longer to heat then the nozzle does. When I go to start a print I will usually go into the preheat menu and start both the nozzle and the bed heating, this will heat them both up at the same time. I usually have it preheating while I'm working in Simplify3D. By the time I'm ready to print everything has heated up and stabilized. If I take too long in preparing my models to print the printer will timeout and turn off the heaters.
I am used to a long heat up time with my I3 as its heated plate is 200x200 (MK2 style is 219x219 with the heated part 200x200) and 110c was a very long time but I must admit this bed takes about as long to get to 40c as my bed does to 60c on the I3. At first I thought it might be an under powered PSU since the lights flicker in it as it is printing too but at 350 watts my I3's PSU was 360 watts and 10 watts is not enough to account for the long times.

I am starting to think it may be Sailfish that is the culprit here because in Marlin I am fully exposed to all sorts of parameters I could, and I did, control. Not a fast enough heat up time in Marlin? Just go to Configuration.h and change MAX_BED_POWER for the heated bed and BANG_MAX and PID_MAX for the nozzle when using PID mode then run M303 etc... to PID autotune. Bob's your uncle and all done.

I really dislike a system that detaches me from such parameters. I understand the reasoning due to people messing with things they don't grasp and burning down their houses etc... but for someone who knows these things don't detach them. The problem is Marlin is firmly documented if you look but I don't see Sailfish documented for these things that I could easily find.

More than likely I will get this printer working and when the warranty is out I will swap that Mightyboard out for a more tech friendly version of either Ramps 1.4 or move over to the Due or Smoothie boards where I am not as detached.