Quote Originally Posted by svt04cobra View Post
Gotya!!! So wouldn't it be good to cover the heated build plate completely with this stuff? That way the glass would be level and completely transferring the heat evenly?
As I was recently told this answer I will repeat it...NO, lol. It forms air pockets and when you pull the glass up it will tear the pad. I was so hoping I could do this to take my taco MK2B and my boro and have 2mm thick under it but that isn't a good idea. Basically the printer I have I have never been able to print well with it because the MK2B is like a taco shell. The aluminum heat spreader helped but it finally was deformed as well (it came bent too). I give up on trying to get anything here that is flat and straight so I will buy a printer and if it isn't flat I have all sorts of things I can do even charging back if needed because it would have come like that since it is in the printer already.

The metal shop in Nashville left me high and dry and never did send me my quote and I think it is because I want something in metric (drawn with metric) and most shops can't do metric. Heck, the shop is all over the country and they can't even do anything with a cad drawing so pretty lame.

All I want is this in 1/4in Aluminum tool plate (Mic-6 for instance) and I can't get it. I have no way I can do the holes here and countersunk even but someone with a DP could easily whack that out (or even a CNC mill/router).

ToolingPlate.jpg

Couple that with a 3M backed 200 watt 24v silicone heater (or if I could find a Kapton Heater it would be even better) and my issues would be gone.