Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[KludgeGuru]

Thanks for the link man. I'll get that pet tape.

And also do you guys think this glass plate will fit the maghold build platform?

http://makersome.com/store/borosilic...te-glass-only/

Price seems ok with free shipping.

Yes that is the right size. Look at McMaster-Carr, it is cheaper there. 6"x 9" x 1/4" is $18.73... not sure how much shipping is though.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8476k74/=11rt97e

[kaznad]

Yes that is the right size. Look at McMaster-Carr, it is cheaper there. 6"x 9" x 1/4" is $18.73... not sure how much shipping is though.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8476k74/=11rt97e

You're right, that's so much cheaper. Which thickness to get though? Is it possible get one that doesn't require Z shims?

[Syd_Khaos]

Broke 1000 meters on my machines filament odometer last night. Made me smile.

[KludgeGuru]

You're right, that's so much cheaper. Which thickness to get though? Is it possible get one that doesn't require Z shims?

I would go with 1/4"... I would be afraid of the thinner glass cracking more easily.

[caall99]

So, still undecided between MagHold and Boro Glass, but I am having reasonable success with the default blue sticker now. Things stick to the build plate in a near permanent fashion and I have to re-level the print surface after every print... but at least no corner/edge curling with ABS!

I am currently running ABS at 225C-230C with the bed at 85C to 90C. Any higher on the bed temperature and my prints fuse to the build surface.

I printed a new effector for my Kossel Mini. The model had a couple issues that I fixed with MS file fixer (netfabb powered). Only after fixing the file could I load it into (horrible) MakerWare. Everything seemed to print nicely, but here are my issues:

1. I need the ability to set a minimum layer time like I can in Cura. I am seeing top corner curling on ABS prints, which leads me to believe each layer needs more cooling time. Besides using GPX (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81425) to convert *.gcode files to *.x3g, is there another way I can use Cura with my Qidi? I am more and more trending towards Simplify3D, because I missing my favorite Cura options in the MakerWare software. Maybe ReplicatorG is better?

2. I am having significant "ringing" (or ghosting) on my prints. Print speed is 60 m/s, travel is 115 m/s, 0.2 mm layer height, 2 shells. In the menu it shows that I have Sailfish 7.8 and that acceleration is turned "ON". I read that the default firmware acceleration rates per axis are between 1000 mm/s^2 and 2000 mm/s^2. I don't know what my rates are set at in the firmware (haven't connected my computer), but what are you guys running your acceleration at? There are a lot of abrupt moves, and banging back and forth when my printer prints... everything shakes, including the build plate! Almost looks like a VERY high acceleration setting, or no acceleration at all.

Besides the ringing issue, I have to admit that the print quality far exceeds that of my delta.

Hey all!

Some updates on my aforementioned problems. I can honestly say that I resolved both.

1. MakerWare != MakerBot Desktop!!! I upgraded to MakerBot Desktop from the Qidi Tech provided MakerWare software and am now slicing 5 times faster, can set minimum layer time, and a variety of other advanced options. This is so much better! I may or may not stay with the MakerBot software, we will see how far I can get my machine tuned.

2. I used ReplicatorG to update my Sailfish firmware settings... and low and behold, my max acceleration was set to 65,536mm/s^2 (yup, you read that right)! Coincidently that is the size of a 16 bit integer, or 2^16. Obviously an incorrect value, that caused my machine to behave as if it didn't have acceleration turned on. I changed that value to 1000mm/s^2, and the X, Y, and Z values from 1000mm/s^2 (default) to 500mm/s^2. MY GOD! Printing is almost buttery smooth! No more "ringing"! I also changed my ABS filament temp from the 230C to 220C, and my bed is now at 85C (I don't use an active cooling fan with ABS). ABS sticks perfectly to the blue sticker and does not warp! Very very happy with last nights result! I may use the spare blue sticker pad with the MagHold spring steel plate (in the mail to me now), because I am having so much success with it.

Things to do:
a. I may reduce the max acceleration parameter to 750mm/s^2, and the Y acceleration parameter to 400mm/s^2, instead of 500mm/s^2. The Y axis has a lot more mass, and should therefore have a smaller acceleration value than the X axis. Still need to decide on values for extruder acceleration. Still trying to figure out why there is a max acceleration parameter and then individual parameters for each axis...
b. I may also reduce my ABS filament temp further, say to 215C. I am working on surface smoothness and bridging next.
c. Install MagHold with BuildTak (option 1) and Blue Sticker (option 2)
d. The wire loom on the right side of the machine is rubbing on the right acrylic window when the machine moves in the Y direction. This is wearing away at the acrylic, and needs to be fixed. Thinking of printing one of those cable chains on thingiverse, just have to decide which one!

[KludgeGuru]

Great info, guess I'd better check my EEPROM settings in ReplicatorG. Keep us posted on your tuning results.

[rcleav]

Like KludgeGuru said great info and now makes sense as to me why I'm not seeing the acceleration issues that you guys with the latest Qidi Tech iteration have. I will check my settings tonight. Also looks like with those acceleration perimeters changing out the 8mm rods with 10mm ones wont really cure your shaking problem.

[rcleav]

A quick warning for anyone wanting to upgrade there Qidi Tech firmware with Sailfish.

I have a Qudi Tech model that did not come with sailfish just the original Makerbot firmware.
I wanted to upgrade to Sailfish and was able to but not without difficulties and nearly bricking my controller board.
Qidi Tech uses abnormal fusebits when configuring the controller board and unless you know how to change those fusebits to a more standard configuration Do Not try it. I don't know if this is true about about the latest QidiTech Controller boards but wouldn't be surprised if it is.

[caall99]

Like KludgeGuru said great info and now makes sense as to me why I'm not seeing the acceleration issues that you guys with the latest Qidi Tech iteration have. I will check my settings tonight. Also looks like with those acceleration perimeters changing out the 8mm rods with 10mm ones wont really cure your shaking problem.

Glad it's helpful. I'll continue to contribute my findings as I delve deeper into this 3D printer. Most of my bed shaking subsided after the acceleration changes. The only shaking I am noticing at this point is due to both the print nozzle and idle nozzle scraping my parts during printing and travel moves. This problem is related to filament extrusion temperature, extrusion rate, JKN Advance K and K2, and cooling time per layer. All of these parameters can cause infill to be at a higher level than the current layer being printed. Once I have everything dialed in, there shouldn't be any more part collisions with either nozzle, and therefore, no more bed shaking. I also intend to install the Kludge's Z-axis rod braces (thanks for sharing!).

[KludgeGuru]

I also intend to install the Kludge's Z-axis rod braces (thanks for sharing!).

Hey, we're all in this together.

I've almost got my 12mm rod upgrade in. I had to strip the machine to the bone to remove the z-axis rods. I then took a bunch of measurements and put it back together. I designed up some new top and bottom rod supports and a platform adapter so I didn't have to drill any holes in the plate. I printed the new parts last night. Hopefully this weekend I will have time to take apart the machine again to install the new hardware.

I'll probably keep whatever acceleration settings I currently have so I can compare results from the 8mm vs. 12mm rods.

Once I determine that the design works I'll post it to Thingiverse.

Maybe with caall99's acceleration finding the upgrade isn't needed, but I already have the parts so I'll go through with it anyway.