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  1. #571
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    Feb 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by KludgeGuru View Post
    I originally had that problem and found that I had to change this line of code in each of the scripts:

    Code:
    G1 X-110 Y-75 Z30 F9000 ; Move to wait position off table
    It used to be X-130, changing it to X-110 solved the problem of the head hitting the far left side. If yours is still doing that reduce it to maybe X-105 and try again.
    Ah cool, thanks. I'll try that when I get home today. Maybe the person that originally used that script didn't have the fan attached to the side of their head?

    Another thing I've noticed (and I have no idea if it's related to the script or not), is my build plate is only heating up to about 25C, when I'm pretty sure I told it in Simplify3D to heat up to 40C, and then drop to 0 after the 5th layer. Is this an issue with my configuration of Simplify3D, the script, or both? I still don't really know how to read all those gcode parameters, so it's hard for me to understand what it's doing just by looking at them.

  2. #572
    I have had mine for a couple of weeks now. I am very happy with it. Leveled the bed and started printing right away.
    Now I am using a 1/16 (0.063") aluminum plate right on top of build plate. Harispray or glue for adhesion. I do not need a Z shim.
    Just compensated for the thickness with the leveling screws. Works great. I use tape to hold the plate for now, but am working on some corner clips.

  3. #573
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    Feb 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syd_Khaos View Post

    Well thurs yer problem!

    To small to hit the toothed feed gear or the heat. The little swelled bit was caught up on the smooth feed wheel.

    So now I am ready to put the machine back together. Go out to garage and grab my torch cleaning needles.....wouldn't ya know the .4 and .3 needles are missing.
    Its fast becoming one of those 'I should have stayed in bed' kinda days =P
    Mine is doing the exact same thing. I'll bet I have the same problem. Should this happen after making two prints? Why would this typically happen?

  4. #574
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    Feb 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by mwhatch View Post
    I have had mine for a couple of weeks now. I am very happy with it. Leveled the bed and started printing right away.
    Now I am using a 1/16 (0.063") aluminum plate right on top of build plate. Harispray or glue for adhesion. I do not need a Z shim.
    Just compensated for the thickness with the leveling screws. Works great. I use tape to hold the plate for now, but am working on some corner clips.
    I was wondering if something like that would work. Didn't even think about the fact that you could just adjust the leveling screws a bit instead of using a shim; that's even better. Does 1/16 inch aluminum really stay flat enough though? It seems like that could distort pretty easily.

    I have a sheet of 1/16 inch galvanized steel. I wonder if that would work okay.

  5. #575
    I think steel has more tendancy to warp, but it may be worth a try.

    The above picture looks like heat creep in the extruder tube. Is the extruder fan ( not the print cooling fan ) running the whole time you are printing?

  6. #576
    Super Moderator
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    Add jfkansas on Thingiverse
    The platform lowering isn't going to affect Leveling. The build plate will home back to the top before each print.

    Yes though, try not to flex things around too much There is quite a bit of spring in the whole system so just try not to permanently bend something and it should be fine. It only takes a minute or 2 to re-level so check it every once and a while. It shouldn't get more than 1/8 turn out of whack at any time after initial leveling.

    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    Does anyone have any advice on scrapping items off the build platform in a manner that avoids messing up leveling? For example, sometimes when things are really stuck on the platform, I have to scrape pretty hard, which puts clear flex/stress on the platform. I do this at various heights (I rarely bottom the platform out). Sometimes I can feel the platform lowering and am guessing this is probably not good for the platform or the alignment? Is there some best practice like jogging the platform to the bottom Z position that I am not following? I try to be careful but like I said, sometimes things are really stuck on there. I know I can't be the only one either since you hear stories about people chipping their platforms or even breaking glass.

  7. #577
    Ok, so I've been following this group for a few weeks and pulled the trigger on a Qidi. I've been playing with it for about a week and decided to order a couple .25 glass plates for the top of the bed. I printed out these corner clips: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:613685 but can't figure out exactly how to attach them to the bed and glass?! Do I need to remove the blue pad and back out one of the screws in the OEM plate or do I need to purchase some additional hardware? I'm sure I'm overlooking something obvious, but I'm trying not to create more work for myself. Appreciate any help!!

  8. #578
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vansmak View Post
    Ok, so I've been following this group for a few weeks and pulled the trigger on a Qidi. I've been playing with it for about a week and decided to order a couple .25 glass plates for the top of the bed. I printed out these corner clips: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:613685 but can't figure out exactly how to attach them to the bed and glass?! Do I need to remove the blue pad and back out one of the screws in the OEM plate or do I need to purchase some additional hardware? I'm sure I'm overlooking something obvious, but I'm trying not to create more work for myself. Appreciate any help!!
    Remove the aluminum bed completely from the machine by unscrewing the leveling screws and springs.
    Then remove the blue pad. It will take a little effort but make sure it's perfectly clean and smooth.
    You can now put the aluminum build plate back on using the same leveling screws and springs.
    On the corners of the build plate that your glass mounts attach to find/buy longer M3 screws to replace the originals.
    Put the new screws in both corners and tighten the original nuts up under the aluminum plate.
    Then slip your corner brackets on.
    I use an M3 washer and wingnut under the corner brackets to make the brackets adjustable.

  9. #579
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    Feb 2016
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    96
    Can you guys share some of your retraction settings? In other news, I remember why I gave up on ABS temporarily. PLA prints flawlessly for me but ABS has all sorts of issues with adhesion, overheating, etc. So annoying.

  10. #580
    Engineer-in-Training rcleav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sygyzy View Post
    Can you guys share some of your retraction settings? In other news, I remember why I gave up on ABS temporarily. PLA prints flawlessly for me but ABS has all sorts of issues with adhesion, overheating, etc. So annoying.
    Have you tried PETG?

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