Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone

[sygyzy]

Hi guys, so I got my printer today (3 days from China to California - pretty good) and I am totally stumped about many aspects of it. Hope someone can help

1. Are the filament guide tubes supposed to sit so loosely against the back of the machine? I know there are clips but they are not very secure. Is that why there are pieces you can print out on Thingiverse?

2. For the front acrylic door panel, the way it attaches to the machine with the hinges - are you supposed to use the nuts inside the cutouts of the plastic hinge to secure it with the screw? The reason I ask is I used 4 nuts and four screws to attach the panel to the pair of hinges. But then now I am short 3 nuts to attach the door/hinge assembly to the machine (at the top). Does anyone have any spare nuts? I think they are size M4? I thought about emailing the company but it seems really inefficient to ship 3 nuts from China. Could I find them in a hardware store? Last time I tried to buy 1-3 single pieces of screws, nails, nuts, bolts, etc, it was practically impossible. I don't need 500 of them. Any idea where some others might be hiding? I don't think I used the wrong nuts for anything else. 4 for each side window, plus the smaller ones for the prism shape acrylic top.

Now let's get to printing

3. I have no idea what I am doing. To start off easy I am trying the Makerware software (Makerbot Desktop). I loaded a spool of PLA that came with the printer on the LEFT (facing the machine) extruder. I used the machine's LCD controls to load the filament at 200C. The plastic started coming down pretty cleanly (as far as I can tell). Once some came out, I cut it off. Then I loaded a 20mm test cube. It took me a while but I finally figured out how to choose which extruder would be used (it defaulted to right unbeknownst to me). Anyway, I set it to PLA, 200C, 60C bed and told it to print. Now here's the weird part - it starts heating up BOTH extruders (I had the other set to ABS 230C). It also heated up the bed to 60C (correct, it's what I set in the program). Anyway, both are heating up then it starts printing. It lays down a horizontal line across the front of the bed. Then it looks like it's printing but nothing comes out. Makes me think it's using the RIGHT extruder. I cancel the print and notice not a single thing is printed. So then I used the menu to load LEFT filament again. Once it gets up to temperature, a nice string of plastic comes out. What's going on?

4. If I primarily want to print with one head, is it easy enough to set this in each program? I am having a hard time understanding this setting in MakerBot and Slic3r. It seems to want to use both extruders.

5. When I am choosing the type of machine, and QIDI isn't listed (obviously), what should I choose? Replicator Dual? Replicator 2? Replicator 2X? Sailfish (Makerbot)?

6. Instructions say to remove all the covers including sides for ventilation when printing PLA (i think) and the opposite (all covers on) for ABS. Are they serious? It seems really time consuming to undo 8 screws and nuts for the side panels each time I want to print a certain plastic. Do you guys just leave them off always?

Thanks and sorry for all the newbie questions.

[rcleav]

Question about minimizing shaking of the bed.

I I was noticing that the bed would shake and vibrate when the printer would get to doing infill and I read that causes the band in and shodows and such. So I lofted the printer up on some of the foam that the printer was packed in so the entire unit can move together and it seems like the bed moves more? But the entire printer also seems to move more as it is free floating of sorts. Is this making it worse or better?

The he desk it is on is daily solid, burnt mean it does move a bit when the printer really gets going lol.

I I read somewhere you can adjust 'jerk' so that it slows down before making a change in direction?

Also so I love how fast hexagon moves speed wise for infill but it also moved really rabidly lol and may be making it worse lol. What pattern does everyone use?

Make sure acceleration is turned on. It's located on the front panel under utilities sub menu.

I do get a little shake not usually enough to effect the print. I also have a Yoga mat covering the top of my bench for padding. The pad is what I use for my pit bench in RC racing. I also built an extra sturdy 6" bench that doesn't move much and holds two printers going at the same time.

[dspdrew]

Where did all you guys get these things for $650? I can only find them for $800.

[rcleav]

Where did all you guys get these things for $650? I can only find them for $800.

Right here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Newest-Model...sAAOSwYlJW1jlz

[dspdrew]

Well, that's a bid, not a Buy it Now price. But okay, it's worth a shot.

[Syd_Khaos]

What size is the hardware for mounting the heatplate (the ones that go through the springs)??
Those M4s or M3s?

Im also curious as to what type of glue was used on that blue pad? I want body armor made from it!! I cant get it off the aluminium, by scaping with a razor or using chemicals. I could probably shoot it to no effect, its the most resiliant stuff ever made.


@ sygyzy:
1) the tube claps do snap down tighter, there is kinds 2 settings to em, so to speak. First snap holds em loose, good for loading new spools. Then you can snap em further (sometimes its a pain) and they are held tight.
2)The holes on the machine body to attach hinges to are threaded. Sometimes the threaded hole can be a little misaligned with the front hole, so ya gotta wiggle till ya get good thread.
3)not sure, don't use maker software...S3D is way to go imo.
4)again, not sure in that software, I know its easy to dictate what head/nozle is used in S3D, I assume other slicing software has same options.
5)choose default settings for Flashforge Creator Pro (or dual)
6) I typicaly leave the top off and crack the front door a bit for PLA, seems to be more than enough...but I new to this too.

[KludgeGuru]

Well, that's a bid, not a Buy it Now price. But okay, it's worth a shot.

I used the Make An Offer on the Buy It Now item. They accepted $650 when I did it.

[sygyzy]

Well, that's a bid, not a Buy it Now price. But okay, it's worth a shot.

I know you are new here (so am I) but listen to these guys are saying and don't be argumentative (if that was your intent). I spent a weekend emailing that seller back and forth and a "Make an Offer" price that gets accepted right away is the same as a Buy It Now. You can BIN for $800 or you can make an offer for the same unit for ~650. Your choice.

[sygyzy]

2)The holes on the machine body to attach hinges to are threaded. Sometimes the threaded hole can be a little misaligned with the front hole, so ya gotta wiggle till ya get good thread.

Are you saying I don't need nuts on specifically the four front holes that mount the hinge because they are threaded, while none of the other body holes (ie side panels and handles) are?

[Syd_Khaos]

Are you saying I don't need nuts on specifically the four front holes that mount the hinge because they are threaded, while none of the other body holes (ie side panels and handles) are?

Correct.
I tried putting nuts on there too, was wondering why bolt wouldn't slip through. Looked in there and its threaded.