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Thread: Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone
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02-29-2016, 06:22 PM #351
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- May 2014
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- 67
Remove the blue stuff, get a borosilicate glass plate to use on top of the aluminum. Get Elmer's glue sticks (non toxic purple kind)
For heating through glass, I run:
PLA @ 210 First layer, 205c after / Bed @ 85c First Layer, 60c after
ABS @ 230 / Bed @ 100c
To get rid of spiderwebs / stringing between printed pieces and holes, etc, you need to enable Retraction in your slicer software.Last edited by cjalas; 02-29-2016 at 06:37 PM.
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02-29-2016, 06:41 PM #352
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- Feb 2016
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I just purchased one last week (ordered Tuesday and received Friday) my offer of $630 was declined but $650 accepted. mine came with orange PLA and white ABS. I have owned an original Ulitmaker for about 4 years now but I am very impressed by this machine already.
one issue I am having is that the prints are super difficult to remove from the build platform, hot or cool. I have lowered the platform a couple of times and that has helped slightly but I usually end up damaging my prints before I can remove them. I am printing the parts to use the glass I picked up on MC (shim and clips), but was wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem.
Another problem I was having was with the cables on the right binding on the screw for the acrylic, but I was able to fix that with another ziptie.
IMG_2275.jpg
When I ran the demo print on the SD card for ABS after homing the X axis moves all the way over to the right and the print fan runs into the left side of the machine, does that fan reduce the X printable area? I haven't had this issue when printing from Simplify3D, but haven't printed anything that large yet.
Here's a photo of my first print (test your 3d printer v3)
IMG_2272.jpg
I'm still tweaking S3D. does anyone have a pretty reliable profile for S3D that they wouldn't mind sharing?
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02-29-2016, 06:58 PM #353
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- May 2014
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I would put some glue on the glass, I personally use elmer's glue (purple color). Then again I also have a 1/8" thick borosilicate glass bed, so your success may vary.
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02-29-2016, 07:19 PM #354
That's why I went to a removable glass build plate prints where nearly impossible to remove from that blue sticker not to mention you are effecting your level while working to get it off. I know it sounds weird but there is a vinyl compound in Aquanet Hair Spray Purple Can that will stick to about any type of plastic but pops right off when cooled off.
That's a known problem with these clone printers I printed these for my clones (Qidi & CTC) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:124700
There is a lot of stress on the wires the way they route them and they will break eventually. (Why they send a spare cable with machine)
Did you chnage the startup script in S3D if so your x axis does not take the cooling fan into account. find and change to this line in the startup script in processes "G1 X-110 Y-75 Z30 F9000 ; Move to wait position off table"
The Flashforge Creator Pro machine settings work pretty good.
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02-29-2016, 08:54 PM #355
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- Feb 2016
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02-29-2016, 09:18 PM #356
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- Feb 2016
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I got some major issues now.
Was about 98% done with a print today and the nozzle stopped extruding material. I cancled the print and tried to run the filament load. Can hear the machine clicking to take in material, but nothing comes out.
I'm guessing its clogged up in there.
Looked over the SD card pdf instructions and didn't see anything about cleaning the nozzles. Does anyone know where there is video or pictured instructions on how to disassembale and clean the extruders? Would be nice to have something visual to work on first time I do this.
Any tip for cleaning the extruder assemble would be much apprechiated as well.
Thanks all =)
@JN3D:
Go get yourself some AquaNet hairspray like Rcleav suggested. That stuff is MAGIC!!! I have had prints with perfect plate adhesion during print and LITERALY pop off once the plate cools. Almost everything I have printed so far has poped right of the plate with VERY little effort using the hairspray.
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02-29-2016, 09:33 PM #357
You can start by heating up the extruder and then carefully removing the nozzle It's will be very hot. Then pull out the PTFE tube.
Hold onto the heating block with a wrench carefully so it doesn't turn while removing the nozzle.
This is what I do
If the nozzle is clogged heat it up with a torch and run something finer then .04 through it. I use a very fine guitar string
If the PTFE tube is blocked heat up a very small dia. drill bit to melt and force the plastic out.
You can put all back together cold.
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02-29-2016, 09:35 PM #358
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- May 2014
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I had the same issue with my CTC printer; are you using the default extruder drive and not a modified one? Try using the filament loading to unload the filament from the jammed extruder, then pull out the filament. It'll probably take some continuous hard pulling strength to get it out. Cut off the excess filament (it'll probably be all melted up), make sure to cut at a 45 degree angle to give the filament an angled edge. Reload the filament gently, letting the filament get pulled on its own through the extruder. Let it extrude for a bit, then make sure you're sealed. You are using PTFE tubing for the filament both in the extruder and the filament guide all the way up to the filament, right?
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02-29-2016, 09:36 PM #359
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I suggest you try my method first, if it's still jamming then do what rcleav suggests. Taking the whole thing apart is a lot more work and sometimes not necessary.
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02-29-2016, 09:43 PM #360
Completely new to 3d printing and...
06-13-2025, 01:52 PM in General 3D Printing Discussion