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Thread: Qidi Tech 1 - Replicator 1 clone
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01-08-2016, 02:58 PM #91
- Join Date
- Jan 2016
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- 5
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01-08-2016, 03:45 PM #92
Use the putty knife is the only advice I have what was your bed Temp when you printed?
Haven't tried it but wonder how Aquanet hairspray sprayed on the blue pad would work? Just don't get it all over the rest of the printer. I have several glass plates making it easy to swap and spray them outside the printer. I also like the glass build plates because when a prints done I just remove the whole plate from the printer and stick it the freezer for 10 minutes. It practically falls off after cooling off.
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01-09-2016, 11:02 PM #93
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
- Posts
- 11
Did the glass bed upgrade, best thing so far!
Bought a 1/4 mirror from Goodwill for $10 and a $5 glass cutter from Lowes. Watched this video and it was pretty easy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoOKeZEKhrM
Had to use this spacer for the bed, the one for the flashforge was slightly off: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1225804
Glass brackets were made with the customizer: http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/cust...b354f416a74f22
When the mirror cools, the print pretty much falls off, don't forget to use hair spray. I have two mirrors now so I don't need to wait. I have enough mirror to make a couple more too. Awesome upgrade!
IMG_20160109_225059566.jpg
IMG_20160109_225111256.jpg
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01-10-2016, 09:13 PM #94
Sounds like you're on the right track.
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01-11-2016, 08:12 PM #95
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- Jan 2016
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- 1
Upgrade to Sailfish 7.x
Not true. I have upgraded my QiDi Tech 1 (with the MightyBoard with the Atmega1280) up to Sailfish 7.6 and now 7.7.
Here is how it was done:
https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/a...#comment-29052
You can get to SF 7.1 without ISP programming.
To get to the later and better versions of SF you need to change the fuse bits in the 1280 chip. The MightyBoard in the Tech 1 is the same design used in FlashForge and CTC, all easily upgradeable to SF7.7 thru ReplicatorG.
QiDi simply screwed up the programming of the fuse bits.
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01-11-2016, 10:51 PM #96
Nice looks like I have another upgrade to try.
Qidi Tech just sold me a complete dual extruder assy. with cooling fan for a great price ($55) to replace the one my older model had without the cooling fan. I soldered a connector in the blank fan space on the board and it works fine with full software control. I'm still on the creator firmware. The only real difference between new and older MK10 extruders is the one with the cooling fan has tapped holes in the end of the cool block to attach the cooling fan mount. All these parts are available separately on ebay.
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01-15-2016, 12:02 AM #97
I seen someone asking for a screen shot of the firmware for the printer. Mine is one of the newer versions of this machine and is loaded with Sailfish 7.8.
20160114_191636.jpg
Also can anyone tell my why my part came out like this?
20160114_194821.jpg
It looks like it was doing good for the first half and then the rest started to get a little funky. It happened on 2 opposite corners. Not sure why?
Sorry for the crappy pics
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01-15-2016, 01:19 PM #98
It's hard to tell from the picture whats wrong there.
Simplify3D has print quality guide that might help.
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/p...oubleshooting/
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01-19-2016, 01:43 PM #99
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- Jan 2016
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- 5
I got it off finally. I picked up a skinny print removal tool from amazon. It works great. I am still using the blue pad because the tool gets it off pretty easy now.
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01-19-2016, 01:49 PM #100
- Join Date
- Jan 2016
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- 5
Ok. I switched over from ReplicatorG to Makerbot software. I think I like it better than ReplicatorG. One thing though. I haven't figured out how to turn on the auxiliary pla cooling fan. Is anyone else using Makerbot and did they figure out how to turn on the cooling fan in the system? I've only used pla so far for printing.
Holes and pockmarks in print walls
06-04-2024, 09:14 AM in General 3D Printing Discussion