Things that still suck about the V1 printer - according to the founder

[/dev/null]

ok fine but when i pack up my printer or drain my tank what do i do with the water? do i now need some sort of shaker device to dissipate the 2 liquids perfectly so that they dont collide during the next print?

You do not need any special device. There are many ways to remove water from the bottom, but simplest in my opinion is to use a pump. Either manual pump (less than $2 on ebay) or motorized. You do not have to remove salt water completely, it is OK to leave some water on the bottom. All you need is to bring down top surface of the resin so you could start printing again. You could easily remove remaining slim layer of salt water at the bottom completely, with syringe for example, but that's not necessary, you can safely store your resin with some water at the bottom, it will not harm it (only reason I can think of to completely remove salt water would be if you decide to use remaining resin in some bottom-up printer). What to do with removed salt water? Usually you would want to put it back to the top reservoir, if motorized pump is used, you could pump it up there with a push of a button.

my though was the hack as i callled it broke "surface" or top layer tension by pulling the resin up with water. Its a great thought when purely physics based but terrible when in function practice.

Are you referring to mike_biddell's idea from other thread to use normal water as top layer, resin in the middle and salt water in the bottom? If so, you could have made it much clearer by using proper quotes and references. Yes, that idea would be a hack because to make it work properly you have to hack the software to take the top distiled water layer into account, not to mention other complications (for example, top water layer will evaporate slowly and change its thickness). But like other hacks/mods for Peachy from this forum, most users will not need them, and at the moment such ideas are intended only for small group of people who would like to experiment, and may not even give any obvious improvement.

i was thinking on using 100's of dollars of resin and re batching it.

I do not think that UV resin is conductive, so you would have to invent your own hack for the drip system intended for conductive salt water or replace it with something else. And using so much resin just to fill printing volume would be a waste, if you have so much money it is better to get many different resins and have them in many different colors, or just save a lot of money for something else if you do not need this. Also keep in mind that resin have limited shelf life so having too much resin is not a good idea. All of these are the reasons why Peachy uses salt water instead of enormous quantities of resin.

i wonder what comes ontop in a shake test

Since water and resin do not mix and salt is dissolved in the water but pretty much cannot be dissolved in the resin, resin will come up on top.

the salt water is probably churning with laser heat and making its way into the resin making the holes

That's physically impossible. Resin is almost opaque for UV light, so UV laser affects mostly resin surface. Truly unpigmented resins usually have severe light bleeding issues and practically cannot be used without pigmentation. Some pigments are clear for visible light but almost opaque for UV light, so it is possible to have "tranparent" UV-curable resin. But the point is, very little or none (depends on the resin) of laser power reaches the water. And by the way, by heating up both water and the resin there is a chance to improve print quality and reduce probability of unwanted small holes/bubbles in the print (if you or somebody else would like to discuss this idea please post to Heated tank to mitigate surface tension? thread).