Results 81 to 90 of 107
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09-09-2015, 12:55 PM #81
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- Aug 2015
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- 31
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09-11-2015, 01:32 PM #82
Still in the process of filling back orders, what name was yours under. PM if you want.
Thanks.
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09-11-2015, 04:56 PM #83
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- Aug 2015
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- 31
PM sent.. thanks!
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11-12-2015, 04:33 PM #84
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- Nov 2015
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- 1
I placed an order and sent you a PM. Thanks!
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11-13-2015, 10:51 AM #85
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11-16-2015, 07:46 PM #86
I fixed this problem by ordering some cheap 0.002 inch thick stainless steel shims from McmasterCarr. I cut them into little pieces.
I loosened the bolt that holds the extruder head assembly on, slid the shims in the gap and retightened until the heads were even. Works like a charm and you don't have to deal with multiple extruder disassemblies.
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11-17-2015, 03:54 PM #87
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- Nov 2015
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- 7
Just for interest, this is the procedure I used to align the extruders.
First - align the bed CAREFULLY with the one extruder this is an extreemly important step and must produce a good result.
Second - using the information on previous posts release the higher of the two extruder tubes.
Third - use the baseplate to level between the extruder tips (I used a thin metal foil on the base to act as a reflector to help to see when the hights were the same).
Forth - with the base still in place screw the nozzle in place.
Fifth - screwing the nozzle up (tightening) can cause the nozzle to change hight so check again for both nozzles in contact with the base.
Sixth - reassemble the extruder and re-check.
now when you level the base next time be sure to check the hight on both extruders at each step. There is an advantage with dual extruders, it is easier to set the bed level as both extruders have to just clear your paper at each step; any tilt will jam one extruder or the other causing the paper to pivot round that nozzle.
Hope this helps others. Regards, Paul.
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12-04-2015, 05:14 AM #88
- Join Date
- Oct 2015
- Posts
- 11
All,
The tool you are looking for to measure gaps is called a 'feeler gauge'. You can get them in English (.00x inches) or Metric (.0x mm) and they are cheap as can be. $10 USD or less, and found in almost any automotive store. Each blade is a different thickness and usually made of hardened steel. The English one I have is .001, .0015, .002, .003 inches and on up.
I measured the print head card that came with the FF Pro and it is 0.19 mm thick. A feeler gauge is used in the same manner.
Here is a metric one on Amazon so you understand what I am referring to http://smile.amazon.com/Metric-Thick...r+guage+metric.
PS>
- The print nozzles need a 9mm wrench to remove the brass nozzle, I prefer a socket and finger tighten only. A socket will also shave off most of the plastic gunk melted on the nozzle. A 'nut driver' would probably be better if you don't already have a socket set.
- And a 5/64 inch (2mm) drill bit will clean out the nylon tube, slow speed and please don't drill through your finger. You can buy individual drill bits at Lowes or Home Depot.
- An 'inspection mirror' allows you to find the screws holding the print head assembly to the carriage without bending over. A short one is fine, or use a ladies 'make up mirror'.
Here in the US an inexpensive place to get these items is Harbor Freight. Also you can find these items at Sears. Not sure if Lowes or Home Depot carries feeler gauges.
Hope this saves you some time!Last edited by bkochis; 12-04-2015 at 05:54 AM.
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12-05-2015, 08:42 PM #89
- Join Date
- Dec 2015
- Posts
- 1
Just got Creator Pro
I just got a Creator Pro and it drags every print. I believe the head that is printing is dragging the print. I believe I will order your improvement here, but not thinking that will help with my problem. Any help would be appreciated.
MODERATOR NOTE: Post is VERY late to appear due to unexpected problems in obtaining moderator approval.Last edited by printbus; 10-10-2016 at 05:28 PM.
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12-07-2015, 04:10 PM #90
- Join Date
- Nov 2015
- Posts
- 7
Ender 3v2 poor printing quality
10-28-2024, 09:08 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help