Flashforge 3D Creator forum.

[jfkansas]

Yep thats whats happening, too much power for that plug. It is better to direct solder 16g wires to the heater board and us a high amp plug before doing anything else.

There is also what is known as the dual input power mod. The main power plug on the main board isn't rated high enough. It is rated 10 amps on its best day, however 8amps is the max you should run through it continuously. The dual input power mod wires the positive 16g wire directly to a powersupply tap. Then thet 16g ground goes to the plug on the main board. The newer wiring harnesses have only 4 wires on that white connector. I sanded the white connector down to make room for direct soldering the wires to the heater board. The remaining small 4 wires don't need to be rewired, they are low current sensor wires.

[ServiceXp]

Hi guys,

I need help with a reoccurring issue. A while back I noticed burn marks where the cable and the bed connect and it would sporadically stop working. I replaced the cable, and everything was fine for a while, but now the problem has come back. Attachment 7759 I've read that the power cable draws a lot of power and overheats the connection. Is that what's what's happening here? Also, the far left pin that connects to the burnt wire is loose. Does it need to be resoldered? Please advise how I can fix this issue once and for all Thanks!

I believe the newer build plates have 2 connectors one for the heater power (2 wire) and the other for the sensors/safety (4 wire). The harness for the heater power is a much bigger gauge as compared to your picture. I would replace the build plate and harness. That build plate connection is not going to last and will continue to either burn any new connector or simply burn off the heater and short the main board out when it grounds..

[jfkansas]

Yes the newer ones have 2 wire for power, but the wiring and plug still isn't big enough for the power draw.

[Amer11235]

Thanks for the fast response! I don't have much experience with soldering and electrical stuff, so a bit more guidance would be very appreciated. First, the pin on the heater board is totally loose. Can I solder the pin back on to the board, or should I just buy a new board and wire harness? Also, to direct solder some 16g wire to the heater board with a high amp plug, could you elaborate as to what kind of high amp plug I should use and does direct soldering mean I am soldering the wire to the pin on the heater board? Lastly, the dual input power mod: I understand it will draw power directly from the power supply instead of the board. Is that recommended to prevent any further issues or is it an alternative to direct soldering? Thanks again for the help, I would be lost without this awesome community

[jfkansas]

No don't bother soldering the pin back onto to board. You will see 2 pads for + and 2 for -. The bigger wire can span those 2 pads. I don't think you need a new board, a new wiring harness is just gonna do the same thing.


Most hobby shops will have plugs called E flight EC3 connectors, but there are others. The reason for the plug is just to be able to remove the build plate if it is ever needed and not have to solder anything. They should also have a supply of 16gauge silicon wire, it is commonly used in hobby rc stuff.


You should be able to salvage the other four wires and that part of the plug. I sanded the plug down to make room for the direct soldered power wires. There are other ways to do this like finding another 4 pin plug, but for what it needs the cut/sanded plug works just fine with no additional stuff to find and buy.


The dual input power mod helps prevent this from happening to the main power input also. Remember only the red wire goes to the + terminal on the power supply. The black wire goes to the plug on the main board so the build plate heater can be switched on and off.

[ServiceXp]

Yes the newer ones have 2 wire for power, but the wiring and plug still isn't big enough for the power draw.

I don't understand, The wire and connector is rated for 11 amps continuous load (Newer design uses 20 AWG wire)

[jfkansas]

20g is iffy 16g is better. Where is your data on the 11 amps for that plug? They are more like 5 amps continuous in a heated situation like that.

[ServiceXp]

20g is iffy 16g is better. Where is your data on the 11 amps for that plug? They are more like 5 amps continuous in a heated situation like that.

I was thinking standard 4mm pitch tin plated contact. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1968537.pdf is rated at 7amps per contact. The heater only draws 7 amps total at it's highest.

20151110_184847.jpg

[jfkansas]

That's 7 amps max, probably at room temp. We run the Build plates for many straight hours at 200F+ degrees. Don't skimp on power connections. The Main power input is way under rated also. That's why the dual input power is good. The build plate takes half the load from the power supply, then the main power takes the other half.

[Amer11235]

SO, Here's what I ended up doing for a quick fix. I got 18 gauge wire and soldered it directly to the board. direct solder.jpg Does that look ok? As for the connection on the main board, it didn't have any signs of overheating at all, so I think it should be fine for now. What do you guys think? Thank you so much for all the input.