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Thread: glass bed

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    Highly unlikely. This might occur only if you could secure the glass completely along all four edge with zero possible movement.
    As most glass plates are secured at corners or with a weak adhesive or tape on the corners - and as glass has a really low expansion coefficient anyway - it's pretty much never goiung to be an issue.

    I used cheap poundshop picture frame glass with no problems for a while.
    I much prefer my current aluminium bed. But as I pretty much just print on gluestick now - as long as the bed is flat the actual bed material is largely irrelevant.
    Repeated heat cycles will destroy regular glass regardless of how it's attached to the bed.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by anthony27 View Post
    no mind, i went out and got it, I will let you know how it goes.
    That should work great.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by djprinter View Post
    That should work great.
    Worked perfectly , thankyou for the advice,
    I am thinking ahead here, but how do you clean the glass after printing? to remove slurry, harspray PVA glue etc?

  4. #14
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djprinter View Post
    Repeated heat cycles will destroy regular glass regardless of how it's attached to the bed.
    no it didn't :-)
    let's face it as far as the glass is concernd it's barely getting warm.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by anthony27 View Post
    Worked perfectly , thankyou for the advice,
    I am thinking ahead here, but how do you clean the glass after printing? to remove slurry, harspray PVA glue etc?
    I always clean with acetone between prints. For printing ABS I use kapton tape on the glass with a little bit of ABS slurry. If I'm not using tape I use hairspray, I haven't had any luck with ABS slurry on plain glass.

    Hairspray works great, sometimes too great--I've had it rip chunks of glass off the bed when removing a part, which is why I went back to using kapton tape on glass.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    no it didn't :-)
    let's face it as far as the glass is concernd it's barely getting warm.
    Temperature doesn't matter, it's temperature differential--if one side of the glass is hotter than the other. It doesn't take more than 30-50C difference to cause glass to crack.

    Not saying it will happen, but it might and it will ruin a print. Not worth the risk IMO.

    There's also the transfer of heat from the bed to the top of the glass plate which is MUCH better and more even with thermal glass. Regular glass is a poor conductor of heat, which is why it cracks more easily (creates a greater differential).

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