Results 11 to 17 of 17
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08-17-2015, 04:15 PM #11
Effectively gluing the glass to the aluminum isn't a very good long term plan. The best thing about using glass is being able to unclip and remove it. Then if you have 2 pieces exactly the same thickness you just slide a new one in, prep it with what ever adhesive, then start printing again. It all depends on what you are printing I guess. Small stuff plucks of glass pretty easily when it cools down. I have been printing large pieces with a flat solid bottom. It takes quite a bit of work to get these off the build plate and it is good to be able to slide a long flexible putty knife on all sides to gradually lift it.
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08-19-2015, 07:41 PM #12
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Posts
- 19
some great posts everyone! Thanks for all the input/options.
After heating the stock buildplate to 60C for PLA prints, I still had leveling issues in the front right quadrant. I end up with wavy lines and have to use a raft if printing in the middle of the plate due to this.
I ended up buying a 3/16" sheet and used a 5mm shim along with 2 corner clips. Used the S3D bed leveling without a hitch and printed V2 of this bed leveling design (the one that is positioned above the wingnuts). Long story short, i've never had this great of a first layer before, all without tape. Off to grab some aqua net hairspray tomorrow to see how good it can get.
I'll look into getting a piece of 3mm machined aluminium from a local shop if I can. Would be interested to see the comparison.
clips: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:715545
5mm shim: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:515065
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08-24-2015, 07:13 AM #13
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 93
with the flexi plate, you dont need 2, or adhesive, prints do just stick to it, when you finish printing a prat just flex the plate, take the part off, reinstall plate and print again, it ereallay is the best type of plate you can get, ok so its abit more expensive, but the cost saving (wasted prints, adhesive, solvents, ect all add up) im in no way affilated with the company behind it, but i have to say they got it right.
do a youtube search for it you will see exactly what i mean.
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09-11-2015, 07:59 PM #14
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Posts
- 256
One on the glass plate: don't bother with those printable corner clips, they don't hold the glass securely enough (at least not for me and I tried four different types). Also stay away from the metal paper clip method, as your extruder will crash into it.
The two best ways I've found to secure a plate is to either tape it down with some kapton/pet tape, or use a silicon thermal pad (0.5mm thick).
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09-11-2015, 08:32 PM #15
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
- Posts
- 19
I agree, none of those clips worked well...so i modified a set and made my own! Holding strong the last 30hrs of printing and very easy to adjust when needed since there are wingnuts on the bottom and you dont need to remove the nut.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001405
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09-12-2015, 08:29 AM #16
With Aqua-net spray holding the glass to bed , you Don't need any clips !
(Except to hold glass in place while spray is drying)
Try it, you will Like it !
Note: It will just wash off , with wet cloth, if you ever need to replace the glassLast edited by EagleSeven; 09-12-2015 at 08:37 AM.
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09-17-2015, 07:58 PM #17
- Join Date
- Aug 2015
- Posts
- 256
My 3D Norn Emissary print
09-13-2024, 02:28 AM in 3D Printing Gallery