Part just can not be printed right.

[misticpoetry]

IMG_20150819_165322.jpgIMG_20150819_165736.jpg

This part (ABS) I have tried different glues on the heated bed (I normally use a potion of ABS dissolved in acetone, which works great with other parts). However this part's ends peel upwards slowly as every layer is added. I think the layering process kind of 'pulls' the part's ends inward and deforms it. Maybe the modulus (lenght/thickness) of the fins is such that the 'effect' is manifested. Did anyone else experience this and how they resolved it? Any help is greatly appreciated.

[richardphat]

Use a different glue/spray coating and add better brim, ABS soup/juice doesn't work all the time.

[tpete61]

If your in the US go buy some "AquaNet" Hair spray. I've had better success with it than glue sticks as well as being able to print with a lower bed temperature. It works much better for me than a glue stick. You also may want to drop the bed temperature down after the first few layers, it helps avoid warping.

[curious aardvark]

try printing on a raft - that usually works for abs.

[Davo]

Try adding a brim of 5 paths; more if needed.

[3DSQUAD]

You could try a thicker abs glue, if you use a squeegee you will get less air bubbles trapped underneath the abs layer, application is a short window
110deg heatbed, 245deg hotend, this has worked for me on glass.

[Cinova]

Sometimes more brim layers works. Sometimes that will cause the problem as it cools. Some of my friends are definitely using Aqua Net spray.. Others are using PVA glue. Other issues may just be the complexity of the part or the amount of infill. We're using Nylon 12 filament now. Runs great and no warping. Printing on Garolite XX or Lite whatever's available. We use a PVA glue and print from 230-260c depending on the speeds we want. The nylon 12 we are using is a virgin Nylon 12, no additives. Check is out www.rdmfilament.com. Regards;

[Sebastian Finke]

Is your printer completely enclosed. Do that before you start mucking about with different glues, etc. ABS requires a heated chamber to combat warping. You can achieve this by closing the sides, front and top. Eliminate all draughts inside the chamber. Then preheat the chamber by heating up the build platform for about 10 to 15 minutes before you start you print.