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07-28-2015, 07:26 AM #1
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Steel i3 Prusa from Createc in Spain
Just ordered this printer. "Psique" is the model name, and "Impresora" means printer:
http://createc3d.com/shop/es/kit-imp...io-oferta.html
The build videos are here (understanding the Spanish is not needed)...
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...5Mo4fbRyqnPV_K
Note that their vids and pics show plastic X-axis parts; however they now ship with metal parts for those. They added those two videos as the last ones, so you can disregard the plastic X-axis videos.
I will be posting pics of my build. Reasons for choosing this version of a Prusa i3 printer are:
o Steel frame will not warp or crack (compared to acrylic). Should be good for endless years of upgrades and rebuilds.
o Steel frame has half the thermal expansion of aluminum, so will hold it's alignment better during room temperature changes.
o Steel frame weight will help keep the printer in place during faster print head moves.
o Power supply and electronics mount on the back of the frame, holding the frame down, and taking up less space.
o Has the LCD built into the frame, saving space. This is the only metal i3 I've ever seen to do this.
o Has the spool on top, saving space and reducing drag.
o Has a steel part that converts the 4-point adjustable bed to a 3-point bed.
o The parts are not hidden behind panels or cosmetics, so are easy to see and adjust.
o Uses all standard Ramps.
o Uses all standard Arduino.
o Uses pre-configured all-standard Marlin.
o Comes with a fan, and fan mount, for the electronics.
o End stops for Z are very easily adjustable.
o There were no steel Prusa i3 printers available in the USA.
o Createc has a maker shop in Spain, so hopefully they are on top of things.
Reasons for choosing the general category of a Prusa i3 printer:
o Will be printing exclusively in PET, which does not warp, therefore no enclosure is needed.
o No print-cooling fan is included, and should not be needed, for PET parts. Thus the head is simpler and lighter.
o No enclosure means easy access to the parts, and the parts run cooler.
o The 2-motor Z axis will not sag like single-motor cantilever machines can.
o The Prusa i3 is the most common and has the most help of any printer.
o The bed is a nice standard 200 X 200 mm size.
I chose the E3D Lite head (with PTFE) option for ease of use, and slower printing. Later I might get the all-metal head. Since I will be only using PET, I'll be at the upper end of the temperature for the PTFE, and thus a slower speed will allow heat to get to the filament better.
I'll be using Slic3r to begin with, although I also got a S3D license as a backup.
The power supply is of course switch-able to 120 volts for USA.
This kit require soldering, so keep that in mind if you have never soldered.
Reasons for choosing PET (or PETG) as the only filament are:
No shrinking or warping.
No smell.
No enclosure required.
Build plate can be heated or not (depends on brand of filament)
Does not absorb water or moisture from air, so does not need to be stored in a container.
Clear color is the most transparent of all filament materials.
Is much "tougher" that PLA or ABS; will bend before breaking.
Uses about the same extruder temps as ABS.
Does not need a print cooling fan like PLA does.
Also known as Polyester, PETG, PETT, PET+
Is what most soda pop bottles are made of.
Does not degrade in water.
FDA approved in the USA for food contact.
Not brittle.
Is the most recycled plastic.
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07-31-2015, 09:10 PM #2
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Package arrived in good shape, 3 days from Spain to California
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07-31-2015, 09:12 PM #3
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More pics.....
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07-31-2015, 09:15 PM #4
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And even more pics.....
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08-04-2015, 02:28 PM #5
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This corresponds to Createc's video:
Createc Steel Prusa i3 "Psique" video#1 - Frame:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGIL4RYBCXs
The 3 mm metal frame parts are very heavy duty, and powder coated black. Since they are the same 3 mm as the Createc aluminum version, these steel ones are much heavier, which I wanted so as to keep the printer in place:
https://vid.me/wC3m
Frame went to together very fast, about 20 minutes, once I figured out how to use screw connector:
7.jpg 8.jpg 3.jpg
The screws are the larger ones, in the bag with two sizes:
2.jpg
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08-04-2015, 02:30 PM #6
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As with any printer, leave all the screws a little loose, and then measure the square-ness diagonally, and make it equal, and then tighten all the screws. A hex tool (allen wrench) is included, but you may want to also get a ball-hex driver with a bigger soft handle to do most of the tightening.
4.jpg 5.jpg
The finished frame is very very solid, 10 pounds (4.5 kg) without any other hardware attached. I think you could drop it on the floor and it would stay in alignment. And of course, with steel having half the thermal expansion of aluminum, temperature changes are less of a concern.
6.jpg
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08-10-2015, 08:50 PM #7
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08-10-2015, 08:53 PM #8
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More Y axis pics:
7.jpg
8.jpg
9.jpg
10.jpg
11small.jpg
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08-12-2015, 11:47 AM #9
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08-15-2015, 05:37 AM #10
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Yea I like the looks too, especially the LCD built into the top (out of the way), but still having the spool up top too (out of the way, and feeding better).
It was the only metal printer I could find that had this.
I will say that being steel, some skill working with metal parts is needed. It is a very tight-tolerance frame, so some parts need to be tapped/pressed into others. It is probably not a first-time kit builder's kit. But this makes the frame a permanent non-flexing feature that should last years.
Printing time- Is this right?
09-13-2024, 07:51 AM in General 3D Printing Discussion