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08-05-2015, 10:36 AM #22
- Join Date
- Jun 2015
- Posts
- 5
A little bit late but thank you for the reply. About the cartridge tearing problem. With Cast cartridges they are indeed of an awfull quality but I used workaround. I end up moving the material to an empty cartridge of Green one which was much sturdier and end up getting normal prints. Also placing the thickest supports do the trick. Do not use thin supports with this material. I always end up with a half printed piece in the cartridge fallen off from the print plate if I used thin ones.
Well the all idea is not to use additional phases like rubber molding. In that case why do I need printer for? I can get the form in wax from designer and just do regular casting than. No point.
The posphate based investment seems to do the trick but it is very difficult to divest. I do it with screwdriver and hammer but.... comeon! should I pay for divesting machine because their recommended investment do not work?
I tried the recommended schedule for Plasticat - faled with the surface quality. I tried to extend the time twice - no results. I am getting rough surface. Seems that the material have some kind of temperature barier after which it starts getting an explosive boilup and that ruins the inner surface of the curing investment.
Also I noted that the lesser water in the Plasticast mix is better. I used 35/100 ratio first and it was better than 38/100 ratio I used the other time.
Now I am a bit into deadend. My friend recommends doing 14 hour burnout scheme but I doubt that it will help.
Any ideas on the chemical composition of the materials? this may help getting the correct temperature ladder which may help avoiding that explosive burnout which supposidly ruins the inner surface.
New to 3d printing looking for...
05-20-2024, 12:56 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help