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Thread: What printer?
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03-13-2015, 07:05 AM #11Its generally a leveled bed right out of the box..
But yep it is a great printer.
For that volume there are a lot of options. The printrbot range have pretty much universally good feedback.
basically for that volume there are a lot of options under $1000.
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03-15-2015, 02:47 PM #12
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
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- 37
Thanks for all your input!
starting to narrow down options.
What would you say is better out of the flash forge creator pro, the Rostock max, the Kossel or the Wanhao duplicator 5s mini?
And why would you say they are better? advantages? disadvantages?
I'll really appreciate any information or advice, thanks!
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03-15-2015, 04:02 PM #13
I would say the PowerSpec Pro from Microcenter is the best bang for the buck. It is on sale for $799 and is a relabeled Flash Forge creator x pro. The only upgrade needed is an external cooling fan for PLA, it also helps with ABS. This fan cooler mounts the best to the x-slide on the PowerSpec Pro.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918
I have been printing with it for a month and have 114 hours on it and printed 407 meters of material (mostly ABS) without one clog or ground filament.
I use Cura when I need supports and slic3r for all other prints. I will use slic3r exclusively as soon as the newest version is released (2.x.x). You must follow this article to get the most control of this printer.
http://www.3duniverse.org/2014/01/05...forge-creator/
The biggest detractor for me is not being able to use a Raspberry Pi to control the printer due to this printer not directly using g-code. This is true for all makerbots and knock-offs.
I use an Ultimaker 2 at work ($2300) and it produces some really great looking parts, but I constantly get filament stripping unless I print very slow. This is really due to the Bowden extruder setup with the stepper on the back. Granted printing slowly with the PowerSpec produces similar quality prints, but I like to print fast when I am making mechanical parts and the Ultimaker 2 can not run as fast IMHO as the PowerSpec. I am in the process of upgrading the teflon guide busing in the Ulti with an exotic high temp engineering plastic so we can run PET at 250c without premature busing warpage. That said, not everyone has the luxury of expensive engineering upgrades.
We also have a very high grade Stratasys 3d printer ($300k) which is awesome. Prints colors, hard materials, soft materials, and is very accurate. It also requires a full-time employee who specializes in running this system.
Good Luck,
Joinc
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03-15-2015, 04:10 PM #14
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07-07-2015, 06:40 PM #15
- Join Date
- Jul 2015
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- 91
So many printers to pick from. I don't know which to buy. Looking at the Robo3d and Ultimaker 2 is suppose to be
real good too with no problems many say Ultimaker 2.Last edited by spaceman; 07-07-2015 at 06:59 PM.
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07-07-2015, 10:36 PM #16
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- Jul 2015
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- 4
Em..According to your situation, there are so many choices.
http://www.wercan.com/3d-printers-3d...g8fug48di7bil4
I think all of these can match you requirements. Your budget is very sufficient. The most expensive no more than $1000 .
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07-08-2015, 02:25 AM #17
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07-09-2015, 12:49 PM #18
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- Whiteford, MD. USA
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- 4
Well, I got the Robo 3D R1. It worked out of the box, But like any, I went thru the get acquainted problems, mostly caused by me.
The Savior here is that there is an excellent Robo Fourm site. The company also has technical help by E Mail, phone and Skype.
There is also a no hassle parts replacement under the 6 months warranty. Most parts are open source, so you can get them anywhere.
So far, I have used ABS, PLA, and a special Stainless Steel filament. If you want to run Ninja-Flex you would best add a guide tube from the top of the cooling fin tower to the Hobble feed bolt. But that is a less than 1 hour project. I have run everything from a spare set of drive gears to full size raptor claws with no problems . I admit that I did have a Hex head hot end leak, but I suspect it was an assembly problem since the nozzle was tight against the heater block. The nozzle should be tight against the end of the heat break tube, not the heat block. Let's just say, I am very happy with my Robo. It runs long jobs while I sleep with no worry. Just my opinion, Frank
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06-28-2017, 09:29 AM #19
If you have no or only a small filament inventory, choose the 1.75mm standard and the FFC Pro.
In case you work with 3mm standard filament: If you can get an UM2 for a good price, for reliability reasons I will recommend it over most other machines. You can trust that, even though the Bowden system may need some upgrades, in five years it will still run. A good second choice is the Wanhao Duplicator 5s Mini. I just got one and it works fantastic. The feeding tube is a bit wider than the UM system which makes it wonderful in running all kinds of filaments.
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06-29-2017, 03:40 AM #20
what do you think of HE3D prusa i3 printer?
it can print 100mm/s
http://www.reprapmall.com/index.php?...product_id=159
Printer will print perfect...
06-14-2024, 10:44 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help