The question on migrating from the wood frame on MakerFarm i3v printers comes up periodically in the reprap and MakerFarm subforums here. IIRC, there have been a few who have committed to go off and swap out the frame, but I don't recall anyone coming back with results.

Where do you think the wood is creating a problem for you? Prior to my purchase of a MakerFarm i3v, I concluded the way MakerFarm is already using v-slot aluminum rails should minimize concerns with the wood frame. The v-slot rails will already be providing a lot of rigidity that something like a wood frame rod & linear bearing i3 printer won't have. The angled frame sides that widen at the bottom provide a very rigid support for the vertical v-rails. Short of migrating to a full cube frame structure, I don't recall anyone offering a good, strut based replacement for the support provided by those sidewalls. You'd likely be wanting to keep a plate type of sidewall.

During the build, I studied my 8-inch printer and observed the following areas where I felt there was a possibility of concern -

  • Single thickness plates at the front and rear of the Y-axis could be subject to flex. I solved this on my printer through making them thicker by adding wood reinforcements
  • The z-axis motor brackets can flex a bit; I currently haven't done anything about this possible concern
  • The x-motor mount can flex. I haven't used it, but attempts are underway in the MakerFarm subforum to develop a printed replacement with reinforcements that should minimize flex. See X-Motor Mount One Piece Print Idea.


Unless there's something I've missed, I'm not sure migrating to an all-metal frame would do much. Like 3DKarma suggests, you'd want to do that only as part of a system of other tweaks, including things like providing better belt attachment points for the x-carriage and y-bed. Make sure you're familiar with the mods thread in the MakerFarm subforum and the i3v tweaks available on Thingiverse if you haven't looked there.

Finally, I wouldn't be surprised if some of the print differences you see are driven by differences between Marlin firmware and Replicator firmware.