Results 11 to 16 of 16
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06-05-2015, 04:36 AM #11
Best tip, Curious aardvark. Slow bottom layer + glue stick and fine results.
Thanks, Jeex exit
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06-06-2015, 01:46 PM #12
oh yeah that works. But it can be an absolute sod to get the models off.
here's a tip. If you've got two models close together and you're using your digital calipers to lever them off the bed. Don't hold the sharp end in your hand.
Removed a fairly deep strip of skin from a finger doing that :-)
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06-10-2015, 05:51 AM #13
The only solution for getting them off is patience. Wait for the glass to cool off.
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06-10-2015, 08:18 AM #14
- Join Date
- Mar 2014
- Posts
- 223
You can also try to edit the STL file and add pads at the corners, for example 10mm diameter circles, 0.5 or so in height. It will help to reduce the stress at the corner and distribute the pull over a wider area.
I attached a picture to show a part I made, the printing pads are easy to cut away after printing, they also help to get more leverage to unstick the part from the print bed.
PanCam_PanBaseA_52.jpg
Hmmm, that image came out very small... you can see the thing here.
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06-10-2015, 08:34 AM #15
Yes, or add stl files that you already have ready:
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...light=davopads
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06-15-2015, 09:36 AM #16
- Join Date
- Jun 2015
- Posts
- 12
I use painters tape, and even hit it with hairspray, no curling but can be a PITA to remove. The tape is usually stuck pretty good to the part once i get it removed, then i just use some solvent, similar to goo gone to remove the tape.
New Here, don't print but need a...
06-20-2024, 12:18 PM in General 3D Printing Discussion