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  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Themoonisacheese View Post
    well, the second issue has definitely been fixed, but the filament keeps clogging itself.
    will try to recalibrate it, but makerware for linux doesnt allow me to set different speed for different steps.
    Thanks for the tips anyway
    I don't use Linux myself but you should be able to create your own profile (as opposed to using the default ones) and this will open up a ton of options. Us Windows users use Proftweak to edit these but you can do it in WordPad or the Linux equivalent too. Proftweak is definitely easier to use as it gives a nice overview; with WordPad you'll need to go through it carefully but it is possible. Bottom line: don't use the default profiles.


  2. #12
    well, thanks.

    i am now able to change speed, i think.

    now problem is, I just can't print big parts without the extruder clogging itself in the first 30 mins.

    i am now printing at 40mm/s with the platform at 110°C and the extruder at 250°C.

  3. #13
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Try and get some decent abs.

    I printed with abs exclusively for a few months (until I tried pla - now there's a whole shelf of abs I don't think I'll ever use)- never had a nozzle clog, never used cheap abs either But did always have to use a raft.
    reprapper tech ltd pretty much make the best all round filamaent both abs and pla I've currently used.

    And almost every roll of filament is slightly different.
    Even different colour filament from the same manufacturer will print at different temperatures. The colour pigments make a lot more difference than you'd expect.

  4. #14
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    Yo.... the under layer is clearly still too hot.

    Printers that use shroud cooling tend to have piss poor quality fan (those 60mm or smaller fan). Dirt buildup is the main reason usually. Throw some lubricant in the sleeve or bearing and use compressor gun and spin it up the blade until it gets smoother.

    Or replace with a Delta fan, but I doubt makerbot didnt foresee that

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by richardphat View Post
    Yo.... the under layer is clearly still too hot.

    Printers that use shroud cooling tend to have piss poor quality fan (those 60mm or smaller fan). Dirt buildup is the main reason usually. Throw some lubricant in the sleeve or bearing and use compressor gun and spin it up the blade until it gets smoother.

    Or replace with a Delta fan, but I doubt makerbot didnt foresee that
    TBH i dont recognise half of the words you used

    I assume you are telling me to replace the fan that's cooling my filament... well, it doesnt exists. the plan is to add one then change filament for abs, but i dont quite know how to do it. i guess there is a lot of tutorials out there...

    I printed a smaller thing overnight at 40mm/s, 250°C and the result is not bad at all, but the bottom of it seems melted, so i'll try lower the bed temp even more.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Themoonisacheese View Post
    ... but the bottom of it seems melted, so i'll try lower the bed temp even more.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke View Post
    ... and lower the bed temp to about 100 (or less even). The glass point of ABS is 105 so you don't want to go over that.
    Lower your bed temp.


  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Themoonisacheese View Post
    I dont quite know how to put it into words, but basically, we have a Makerbot 2x at work, and it has several problems.
    the first one seems semi-random, and is just the extruder clogging itself, but a 240°C extruding temp seems to do the trick. we have also printed all the spring loaded extruder parts in order to replace the stock one, we just need the spring.

    the second one happens only when printing huge surfaces, such as a raspberry b+ case.
    what happens is, the filament from a layer (usually the 2-3rd one) starts to peel off, and the extruder grabs it as it goes and it causes the case to have a hole on it (see photos).


    we are printing at 240°C with the build plate heated at 120°C
    printing with black abs from makershop

    tl;dr: filament from a early layer peels off when printing large surfaces, and this is... bad?

    EDIT: photo has been compressed, here is the full version: http://www.hostingpics.net/viewer.ph...78864board.jpg

    hello Themoonisacheese. I see you have some problems with your makerbot to print here I list some solutions that can help. Currently I have two makerbot 2X working safely and I'll buy a RepRap x400.

    1. As I said earlier, placed extrucion speeds and displacement that brings the default printer.

    2. do not replace any component unless you're 100% certain that this may cause you some discomfort.

    3. Maintain the extruder temperature to 230 degrees is the optimum temperature for the filament.

    4. Change the Kapton tape printer regularly to avoid a bad adhesion.

    5. Do not touch with hands the plate because of natural fat from your body it affects aderencia.

    6. Depending on the type of printing you should place the plate between 135 and 160 degrees. The thermocouple deface the printer has a 15 degree between the actual temperature and that senses.

    7. for large prints using the Raft will help a lot.

    8. Although makerbot tells you that R2X served with ABS and PLA is a lie. Only print well with ABS.

    9. Make calibration plate and constantly extruders

    I hope that helps you.

  8. #18
    Super Moderator curious aardvark's Avatar
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    Depending on the type of printing you should place the plate between 135 and 160 degrees.
    what ???
    Pretty sure it only goes up to 120c anyway.

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by curious aardvark View Post
    what ???
    Pretty sure it only goes up to 120c anyway.
    hahahaha no, i printed at 165°C (plate) and 245°C (extruders) because i was in a room at 15°C

  10. #20
    I printed stuff with 60°c bed temp + 3d printing lac, and it worked only to a certain extent

    the filament justs stops extruding after about 30 mins (i'd say that corresponds roughly to a full spin of the storage wheel) and i can't manage to print anything with abs anymore. flex, nylon and HIPPS, on the other hand, work great.

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