swapping to glass bed

[Ghosty]

ok, i see how ie i can see the 11 hex head fixings but what size are they, as a 2.0 is 2 big and a 1.5 is 2 small i wasnt aware there was anything inbetween those sizes. so could someone tell me how to remove the bolts as i want to remove the alu bed and print on removable glass beds.

on the subject of glass beds what temps do i need for the heated print bed i will only be using pla, i may use some abs to run out what i have. also i have some blu glue stick (pva i think) will that help addesion or make it worse

[ssayer]

On glass with PLA, I normally go with 60C and Elmer's Purple Glue Stick. When the glass cools off, you hear a few little cricks and cracks and then a crack as the part pops loose on it's own...

[stevendm]

I didn't remove the aluminum bed. I went to thingiverse and printed some corner clips that holds the new glass bed on top of the built-in aluminum one. Look at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:546851 and http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:427689.

[ssayer]

I didn't remove the aluminum bed either. I made somewhat similar corner clips out of some aluminum stock that I had on hand.

[sasabs]

I didn't remove the aluminum bed. I went to thingiverse and printed some corner clips that holds the new glass bed on top of the built-in aluminum one. Look at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:546851 and http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:427689.

How does the z-axis shim get installed. Not clear from picture? what is that paperclip in the foreground for?

Do you know if this fix will work on other models like creator PRO?

[gdub]

When adding a glass plate, is it necessary to do some other settings to account for the loss of the added Z height? Or is there a sensor in the extruder module that will sense this?

[Ghosty]

the loss in z height is why i want to remove the alu bed, i have already made my own corner and side brackets that will stablise the glass and stop it from moving.

glass is 3mm same as alu bed so should not need any adjustment to work right (z axis wise) i know ill have to level it.

[jfkansas]

First off, you don't need a heated bed for PLA, generally. And if you heat it should only be around 40c. Second, generally you can just clip the glass on top of aluminum build plate. You will need to lower the build plate by compressing the springs or if that isn't enough you might need to shim where the switch is activated.


You can remove the aluminum though, it should just be phillips head screws. I think though you will have problems because the leveling screws would need to go through the glass. I guess you can have them drilled but I don't think glass likes to be drilled/chamfered and have screws tightened into it. It probably will break. The heat plate is a little too thin to countersink into.

[Geoff]

First off, you don't need a heated bed for PLA, generally. And if you heat it should only be around 40c. Second, generally you can just clip the glass on top of aluminum build plate. You will need to lower the build plate by compressing the springs or if that isn't enough you might need to shim where the switch is activated.


You can remove the aluminum though, it should just be phillips head screws. I think though you will have problems because the leveling screws would need to go through the glass. I guess you can have them drilled but I don't think glass likes to be drilled/chamfered and have screws tightened into it. It probably will break. The heat plate is a little too thin to countersink into.

I used to agree with the no-heat method, but in all honesty it just doesnt work on my flashforge. On my Kossel and I3 I print PLA on a cold glass bed with blue tape, Perfect!.

On my Flashforge however, PLA WILL NOT STICK without a minimum of 65c. Go figure

[jfkansas]

Ya, I can see that but definitely not ABS plate temps. They also say Nylon doesn't need heat, but mine works best at 80c. My experience with PLA is limited, but have ran some since I needed a color that I only had in PLA. Used Glue stick I think.