Results 21 to 30 of 33
Thread: Desperate for bed adhesion !!!!
-
01-21-2015, 08:10 AM #21
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Posts
- 445
104 c in the corner where it curls most, thats through a thin layer of PEI and 1 layer of plastic... so i think its accurate.
woke up this morning and at least 2 corners are still curling.. this is maddening.
-
01-21-2015, 03:16 PM #22
You need to compare that spot to other spots that aren't peeling. What are their temperatures?
-
01-21-2015, 03:19 PM #23
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Posts
- 445
within 1-2 degrees the same.
-
01-23-2015, 05:51 AM #24
I have the same issue, and I'm getting close I think.
I dont think it's a matter of adhesion, since the shrinkage is so strong that it will just peel off regardless.
It seems the secret is ambient temperature. Since ABS shrinks with temperature change, you need to reduce the temperature change that the ABS goes through, and increase the temp-change time. So, run the extruder the coldest you can, run the bed the hottest you can, increase the ambient temp as much as you can, and cool it slowly when it's finished. You can still run the nozzle fan, and since it's now blowing hotter air, it still has a good effect but not so much of a temp-shock for the material.
I'm using cheap nasty ABS, printing on 130c bed temp with hairspray, 50c ish ambient temp and it's getting less and less warpy. Going to install 2x 50W heaters inside the case to raise the ambient temp some more, will report on my findings!
-
01-23-2015, 06:03 AM #25
okay how about getting different abs - abs+
A number of coompanies have launched abs + with lower warping and moisture absorprtion.
http://www.trideus.be/en/blogs/live/...r-raush-10653/
just one review.
-
01-23-2015, 10:07 AM #26
-
01-23-2015, 02:32 PM #27
well there are a number of different makes of abs +
try and find a cheaper one.
Or work out how much abs you've already wasted. If a more expensive filament wastes less - is it actually more expensive ?
-
01-24-2015, 03:27 PM #28
-
01-24-2015, 06:26 PM #29
Got to thinking about this. I quickly planned out putting a DHT sensor on the side of my drip box, about where the middle of the print would be when shrinking/warping would occur, running that to an Arduino nano that would be controlling a heater and fan on the outside of the enclosure. Current sensor on the extruder wires would turn on the fan/heater, with the DHT limiting the ambient air to 50-60c.
-
01-25-2015, 05:03 PM #30
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Posts
- 445
Ok... I found that when i print on PEI (which is amazing btw..No glue, no spray, nothing, just the surface) and 120 was WAY too hot... It adhered great, but it took 20 minutes to get it off... was crazy.
so dialed it back to 100 degrees and instead of my customer 1 layer brim, im doing 2 layers on the same brim. .5mm to be exact.
As of 88% done i have NO curling of any kind... so apparently the extra little bit of height in my brim did the trick.
im so thankful i figured this out...
what a mess.
My 3D Norn Emissary print
09-13-2024, 02:28 AM in 3D Printing Gallery