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Thread: Itty Bitty Double Extruder
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01-10-2015, 03:53 PM #191Yes, the display shows both temps however mine is reversed and I can't figure out why. The right-hand temperature readout is of the left-hand hot end.
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01-10-2015, 04:02 PM #192
Just view the printer from the back bam all good lol
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01-12-2015, 03:33 AM #193
- Join Date
- Jan 2015
- Location
- NZ
- Posts
- 2
Hello can I order a hardware kit to be shipped to New Zealand?
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01-13-2015, 07:26 PM #194
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
- Location
- Eastern Colorado
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- 536
Is there any printed part of this extruder that would be damaged by acetone vapor smoothing? I like the shiny red look in the renderings, and I want to try to achieve that look.
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01-13-2015, 08:06 PM #195
I wouldn't think so as long as you don't overdo it and you give it time to re-harden. It might change the tolerances for the bearing holes. You could split the main body and just print one of the holes and smooth it to test it. That way you wouldn't waste 8 hours of printing. There isn't anythng that is dependent on really exacting tolerances. As long as the bearings aren't loose and knocking around you'd be OK. The rest of it has a lot of tolerance really.
If you do it please post photos. I'd love to see a real one that was fire engine red and shiny...Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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01-13-2015, 10:21 PM #196
- Join Date
- Dec 2014
- Location
- Canada
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- 498
Should I be using ABS to print it?
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01-13-2015, 10:46 PM #197
You could use PET or PLA as well. Any rigid filament will work. If you want to smooth it like some other are suggesting then use ABS. Acetone won't smooth PLA or PET. They can be smoothed but I don't think you want to mess with the nasty chemicals that can do it.
Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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01-13-2015, 11:12 PM #198
- Join Date
- Dec 2014
- Location
- Canada
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- 498
im not worried about smoothing it. just for strength and whats appropirate as an extruder
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01-14-2015, 12:42 AM #199
Sure, I assumed that. You'll be good with any of the three I mentioned. They are all strong. PLA has the lowest melting point so I'd say ABS and PET are better marginally. There's some heat to deal with at the hot ends so you do want as much temp resistance as you can get. You'll need an insulator between the hot ends and the air intake to keep that shroud from deforming no matter what material you use.
Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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01-14-2015, 06:51 AM #200
Holes and pockmarks in print walls
Yesterday, 09:14 AM in General 3D Printing Discussion