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Thread: Itty Bitty Double Extruder
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12-06-2014, 06:08 PM #81
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12-06-2014, 06:16 PM #82
No, I don't have a NEMA 17 version.
It would be possible to design one, but the overall dimensions of the extruder block would have to change to provide clearance between the base and the idlers for the larger motors. The larger motors would also change the frame clearance and belt lengths. I haven't looked into it.
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12-06-2014, 07:03 PM #83
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12-07-2014, 02:22 AM #84
- Join Date
- Nov 2014
- Location
- Orange, CA
- Posts
- 78
hey on a side note anyone want a completed solidworks model for the hexagon hotend.
i was bored and i just got my 2nd one in the mail today..
i had to make a model to i can tool path it at work and spit them out on the little cnc lathe that we never seam to use.
and any clues on how to get the heat break out ? it's the only part i can't seam to get out even after hitting it with a torch (and yes i took the set screw out)
Attachment 3827
I'm remodeling clough42's Itty Bitty Double Extruder to work with E3D v6 hotends only because i seen a few users that wished more people made E3D add-on's for makerfarm printers
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12-07-2014, 06:10 AM #85
- Join Date
- Oct 2014
- Posts
- 8
Hi All
Have printed the main extruder block. It came out pretty well.
I assume we're meant to drill through the bottom where the filament comes out to allow it to go into the hot end.
Maybe I should have also printed it with support (or print cooling) as the 2 recessed areas where the hot ends go aren't so flat due to the bridging it had to do.
Has anyone else had a go and printing this yet?
I used 1.75mm ABS at .2mm layer height.
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12-07-2014, 10:44 AM #86
'TechMasterJoe' thanks for the model. Nice.
'lemming' it printed really well for me too. 'clough42' designed it to print without support. Mine came out really well and I don't remember that I had to drill out the bottom. What I did find though was that the inside of the filament path was not very smooth. I took a 1 foot piece of all-thread (1//8") and ran it up and down the channels to polish them out. I went back and forth a lot until the threads had cut a nice smooth channel. I've had no problems printing.Bambu P1S/AMS
NVision4D http://nvision4d.com
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12-07-2014, 11:24 AM #87
Yes, you need to cut out the support bridging across the bottom of the filament channel. I usually use an X-Acto knife. I just insert the tip into the center hole and sweep around the hole to clean it out. If you have a print cooling fan, enable it when printing bridges, and those strings across the bottom of the channel should tighten up and make a nice, flat platform. If your printer can't do this, you'll probably need to use support. Be careful, though. You don't want to be generating support inside the filament channel.
RobH2 has reported that the inside of the filament channel didn't come out clean for him. I haven't seen his prints, so I don't know exactly what he's seeing. The filament channels are octagonal, to try to improve dimensional stability over round holes, and they print cleanly on my printer. The filament slides through cleanly for me with no cleanup.
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12-07-2014, 12:33 PM #88
Everyone needs one of theses.
HL_shaviv_picture.jpg
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12-07-2014, 02:28 PM #89
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12-07-2014, 05:57 PM #90
- Join Date
- Jul 2014
- Location
- Eastern Colorado
- Posts
- 536
What is it? The picture is too small for me to see it clearly.
Printer will print perfect...
06-14-2024, 10:44 AM in Tips, Tricks and Tech Help